Mohsin Aziz
On the 29th night, we received a message from Asif bhai that the Rowdah group appointment for ladies has been confirmed for the next day, i.e., 30 May. The time allotted was 6 a.m. to 6.19 a.m. Ladies were requested to be present 30 minutes prior at the Gate number 37 of Masjid Al Nabawi, which is also called Bab Makkah on the side of the Baqia Cemetery. As I had already visited Gate 37 twice, it was easy for us. After Fajr Prayer, we stayed in the Masjid and at 5.45, reached Gate 37. Murad Al Balushi, one of the Muallims, was present there with the list of approved names. There was excitement bordering on coomotion amongst ladies in the anticipation of visiting the Rowdah. At appointed time, my wife went inside. From yesterday’s experience, I knew that she would not be out before half an hour. Instead of waiting in the compound of the Masjid, I decided to visit Baqia cemetery as it is near gate 37.
Baqia al Gharqad
Before the arrival of Prophet to Madina, Al Baqi was full of boxthorn (gharqad in arabic), hence the name baqia al gharqad. It was cleared and made cemetery by the Prophet. Some of the prominent companions who are buried there are: Hazrat Aisha Siddiqa (third wife of the Prophet), Hazrat Othman bin Affan, Hazrat Hafsa bin Umar(fourth wife oftheProphet), Imam Hasan ibn Ali (grandson of the Prophet), Zainab bint Mohammad(daughter of theProphet), Ruqayya bint Mohammad (daughter oftheProphet), Umm Kulthum bint Mohammad (daughter oftheProphet), Fatma Al Zahra bint Mohammad (daughter of theProphet), Ibrahim ibn Mohammad (son oftheProphet), Sawdah bint Zamah (second wife oftheProphet), Zainab bint Khuzayma (fifth wife of the Prophet), Umm Salama (sixth wifeoftheProphet), Zainab bint Jahsh (seventh wifeoftheProphet), Juwairiyya bint Harith (eighth wifeoftheProphet), Umm Habiba (ninth wife of the Prophet), Safiyya bint Huyyay (tenth wife of the Prophet), Mariya al Qabtiya (last wife of the prophet), Halima al Sadiya (wet mother of the Prophet, Abdullah ibn Masud, Abu Huraira. The list is very long.
Next to Masjid Al Nabawi lies a building where the bodies of the departed are kept before being taken to their final resting place in the blessed grounds of Jannat al-Baqi. The easiest way to enter Baqi is to accompany a funeral procession. Otherwise, gates open only at set hours.
It was my luck that the gates were open. I followed the queue and stepped stepped inside. Though I have walked through many cemeteries before, attended funerals, and stood by the side of loved ones being laid in their graves for their final journey into eternity, this felt totally different. I was not merely in a burial ground. I was in a place sanctified by the presence of thousands of the Prophet’s companions, the noble Sahaba and the revered Sahabiyat who found their final resting place here.
The air itself felt sacred. It was difficult to contain my emotions. Each stone, each mound of earth, each grave, was a story in itself. Stories of faith, undying love for the Prophet and stories of sacrifice and unheard of valour.
An untold stillness engulfed me. My heart felt heavy. Yet I felt uplifted as this was not a place of sorrow but of longing fulfilled. Millions of Muslims across the ages have prayed for the honour of dying in Madina and being laid to rest in Baqi al-Gharqad. Just the fact that I was standing there felt so uplifting.
Madina
Madina is an old settlement with history going back to 1500 years before prophets migration to the city, making it almost three millenia old city. Being an oasis city, it attracted people who settled there over tome. Before Hijra, Madina was inhabited by various prominent tribes such as Aws, Khazraj, Banu Qaynuqa, Banu Nadir, and Banu Qurayza. After the establishment of the Islamic state at Madina, it became the world’s first capital of an Islamic state.
Madina gained prominence after Hazrat Mohammad (s.a.w.) migrated there to preach Islam when it became difficult to practice and preach Islam in Makkah. The old name of Madina is Yathrib. Today, the name is not in use as the Prophet prohibited ftom using the name. There are several names of Madina, some more commonly used, while some are not so common. Some of the other names of Madina are:
Madinat un Nabi (city of the Prophet)
Madina al Munawwara (the illuminated city)
Ardh ul hijra (the land of migration)
Bait ur Rasool (the house of the Prophet)
Darul abrar (the abode of good people)
Dar us Saman (the house of faith)
Darul hijra (the place of migration)
Medina means a city in Arabic. Madina is used as a prefix with many cities and neighbourhoods in the Arab speaking world such as Madinat Al Sultan Qaboos in Oman. Besides Arab world, Muslims carried the name to far away places where they went. Spain is one such example. When muslim rule was established in Spain, the first Umayyid Caliph of Andalus made his capital city called Madinat al Zahra near the modern-day city of Cordoba. Over period of time, the word Medina became an integral part of the Spanish language. Today Spain has cities with Madina uaed as prefix. Some prominent examples are Medinat al Zahra, Medina del Campo, Medina Sidonia, Medina de Pomar, and Medina de Rioseco. In the wider Spanish speaking world, Medina is a common given name for girls. Annabel Medina Garrigues is a famous Olympic cyclist from Spain. Today, Medina is gender neutral name in the wider Spanish speaking world. The former Gauemalan president was Danilo Medina Sanchez, while Jose Tomas Medina Menendez was vice president of El Salvador.
Masjid Al Nabawi
When the Prophet migrated from Makkah to Madina, his first venture in Madina was construction of a mosque where Muslims could pray. The land for the Masjid was bought from two orphans who were owners of the land. They insisted on not taking any money, but the Prophet gave them money. The land was purchased, and construction began in earnest. The Prophet also participated in its construction. The original mosque was made of mud and palm fronds. Today, it is the second biggest mosque in the world visited by millions every year. It is among the three mosques for which a Muslim can travel to pray there. The other two are: Masjid Al Haram and Masjid Al Aqsa.
Other Masajids and places of importance
Besides Masjid Al Nabawi, Madina has several historical mosques and places. Here are some of the more prominent ones. These are usually part of ziyarat tour packages and may be covered in half a day tour.
Masjid Quba
When Prophet migrated to Medina along with Abu Bakr Al Siddiq, he first stayed for a few days at the outskirts of Medina at a place called Quba. The Prophet laid the foundation of the first Masjid in Islam, which is known as Masjid Quba. According to a hadith of the Prophet praying two rakaat salaat in Masjid Quba is akin to performing Umrah.
Masjid Qiblatain (Mosque of two directions)
Masjid Qiblatain holds a unique place in Islamic history. Today it us not just a physical structure but a symbol of divine direction and spiritual obedience. It was here, during prayer, that the Prophet received revelation to change the qibla (direction of prayer) from Jerusalem to the Kaaba in Makkah. He turned mid prayer. The congregation behind him followed. It was an act of pure submission. It is a powerful reminder of changing the course of ones life without second thought.
Standing within its walls today, one can not help but feel the weight of that moment. It was not merely a change in physical orientation but a turning point in the identity of the Muslim ummah. It was done quietly. But it was a declaration of spiritual independence. It symbolised realignment towards the heart of Tawheed.
Masjid Qiblatain invites reflection. How willing are we to turn, to change course, when truth is made clear to us? Can we, like the Prophet and his companions, shift our direction in life with humility and conviction?
The story of Masjid Qiblatain reminds us that times and situations may come in our lives when faith is not in staying the course but in having the courage to change.
In common folklore, the Cheraman Juma Masjid in the state of Kerala is considered to be the first mosque of India believed to be constructed during the lifetime of the Prophet. However, there is one known mosque in Indian known Juni Masjid or Badwada Masjid at Ghogha in the state of Gujarat that has Qibla pointing towards Jerusalem, signifying its building before Qibla was changed (Times of India, 2016).
There is another mosque in Salalah in the Dhofar Governorate of the Sultanate of Oman that has two Qibla’s, one pointing towards Jerusalem and the pointing towards Mecca It is next to the grave of Prophet Ayyub a.s. (Prophet Job). It’s a very small mosque, open to sky, without roof. It is made of Stones. I have prayer zuhr and asr prayers in 2012 in this masjid.
Sab’a Masajid:
Sab’a in Arabic means seven. Sab’a Masajid is a cluster of six mosques that are in very close proximity to each other. They are referred to as seven mosques because, originally, there were seven mosques. They are situated at the place of famous Ghazwa e Khandaq (battle of trenches). The misques are sutuated at places where companions of the prophet were located. They are located on the western side of the Sala mountain where the trench was made. The six masajid are:
- Al Fath masjid: This is the largest of the six. It is also called Al Ahzab masjid. It is built over a hill. It is at the spot where the Prophet prayed during the Ghazw e Ahzab (battle of the confederates). The reason for being called the Al Fath masjid is because it is also the spot where Surah Al Fath was revealed during the Ghazwa of Ahzab (Al Arabia English, 2018, August 10).
- Salman Al Farsi Masjid: This is named after one of the famous companions of the Prophet: Salman al Farsi (Salman the Persian). It was the idea of Salman al Farsi (R.A.A.) to dig a trench. He was a seeker of truth. His story of searching truth and finding it in Madina after years and years of travelling and searching truth is most inspiring. In the fifth year of Hijra, the Jewish leaders of Madina made an alliance with the polytheists of Makkah to attack Muslims as a combined force and finish Islam once for all. 24000 army from Macca advanced to Madina to attack from outside. The Jews of Banu Qurayzah were to attack from inside. It was a battle if survival for the Muslims. Quran describes it in the following words: When they came upon you from above and from below you, and when the eyes grew wild and tbe heats reached to the throats, and you were harbouring doubts about Allah. There, the believers were tried and shaken with a mighty shake (Quran, Al Ahzab:10-11). The Prophet gathered his companions for consultation. Salman Al Farsi suggested that it would be advisable to dig trenches at vulnerable spots. It was a new idea for the Arab. Prophet accepted the advice, and the trench was dug circling Madina. When the Maccan army came to Madina did not know what to do. They pitched their tents on the other side of the trench in order to wear the muslim army down. One month passed in this battle of nerves. A heavy storm stuck after one month destroying much of the Maccan armies tents, thus forcing them to retreat. On the day of Al Khandaq, the Ansar claimed that Salman belonged to them while the Muhajiroon claimed that Salman belonged to them. The Prophet declared,’Salman is of us, of Ahl al Bayt’. What an honour. On his death, Ali ibn Ali Talib said,’There was a man among the Ahl al Bayt who was like Luqman the Wise (Hakim Luqman).
- Abu Bakr Al Siddiq Masjid: Named after the first Caliph and a close companion of the Prophet.
- Omar bin Khattab Masjid: Named after the second Caliph and a close companion of the Prophet.
- Ali ibn Abi Talib Masjid: Named after the fourth Caliph, close companion, cousin, and beloved son in law of the Prophet.
- Fatma al Zahra Masjid: Named after the most beloved daughter of the Prophet, Leader of Ladies in the Paradise.
- There is a dispute among scholars about the seventh masjid. Some believe the seventh has been lost, while some believe the seventh is the Qiblatain Masjid, which has a very important position in the history of Islam.
Bir Rumah or Bir Othman
There are moments in history that shimmer with quiet greatness — acts so selfless and profound that they ripple through time, touching hearts centuries later. One such moment unfolded in the early days of Islam, when the Muhajirun — the emigrants from Makkah — arrived in Madina with little more than their faith and their trust in the Prophet.
They had given up everything — homes, wealth, even the safety of familiarity — for the sake of a belief. But even in this city of sanctuary, hardship awaited. Among the most basic yet painful struggles was the search for drinking water. The climate was harsh, and water, that most essential of blessings, was not easily found.
There was one well — Bir Rumah— whose water was sweet and abundant, but it belonged to a man who either denied access or demanded a price few could afford. And so, the thirst of the faithful remained unquenched, turning each day into a quiet trial.
The Prophet, seeing the burden placed upon his companions, did not command, but instead extended a call, gentle yet eternal:
“Who will purchase this well for the Muslims? For him, Allah will grant a fountain in Paradise.”
It was a call that transcended wealth and reached into the soul.
And Uthman ibn Affan, may Allah be pleased with him — a man known not for loud declarations but for the quiet dignity of his deeds — answered. Without hesitation, he purchased the well for twenty thousand dirhams and gave it freely to the community. No conditions. No expectations. Just pure charity for the sake of Allah.
Reflecting on this act, I am struck not only by its generosity but by the clarity of purpose it reveals. Uthman saw the suffering of others and responded not with words, but with action. His wealth became a bridge between this world and the next — a source of ease for the thirsty on earth, and a promised spring in the eternal gardens of Jannah.
Over time, the area around the well began to flourish. Date palms rose from the soil, their roots nourished by the same water that once flowed through the hands of Uthman. Nature itself seemed to honor the deed — offering shade and sweetness where once there was only thirst.
It makes one wonder: how many people drank from that well over the years? How many prayers were whispered in gratitude? And how many unseen blessings continue to flow from that one selfless act?
In a world often driven by transaction and return, Uthman’s gift was a reminder that some things are meant to be given freely — not for praise, not for gain, but for the quiet satisfaction of self.
Later, the Ottomans paid interest in it and attended to the palm trees. Later, the Saudi government took care of it and planted more trees. Saudi government, through the Ministry of Agriculture, would sell the dates in the market and divide the proceed money in two equal halves. One half was distributed among the orphans and the poor, while the other half was put in a special account in the name of Othman bin Affan. The account is overseen by the Ministry of Endowment. The amount kept accumulating in Othman bin Affan account until it became a substantial amount that was used to buy land in a prominent area near Masjid Al Nabawi. The land has been bought under the name of Othman bin Affan. The Saudi government has constructed a 4-star hotel on this land. It was aptly named Waqf Outhman bin Affan Hotel (www.waqfouthmanbinaffanhotel.com). The proceeds from the hotel are divided into two equal halves. One half goes to the orphans and the poor while the other half goes to Othman bin Affan’s bank account. What a profitable investment Hazrat Othman made. Indeed, trade with Allah is always a profitable venture.
Bir Rumah is perhaps the longest continuous waqf in Islamic history (www.awqaf.sa.org)
Mount Uhud
An important landmark of Madina related to islamic history is Mount Uhud. It is where the famous battle of Uhud was fought in which the brilliance of Khalid ibn Waleed (he had still not accepted Islam and was a leading commander of Meccan army) led to the disarray amongst Muslims. Uhud was very dear to the Prophet.
Shopping in Madina
Anybody on Hajj or Unrah trip buys gifts for friends and family back home. I also bought gifts from Bin Dawood. It is perhaps the most well-known shopping centre close to Masjid Al Nabawi. It is adjacent to the ladies’ prsyer area of MasjidAlNabawi. It is very popular, and pilgrims can find all their requirements related to hajj, umrah, and a variety of gifts, dates, and toys for relatives back home. We bought a robot that my wife promised to our son as a gift from Hajj. We also bought all the dates that we expected to distribute to friends and family back home. Besides the gifts, we bought a few things which we thought were required for Hajj, such as a plastic folding carpet for Muzdalifa. All these things are available in Makkah, but we did not want to waste our time searching for these things in Makkah. It was on our way to our hotel in Madina, making it very convenient and time-saving.
After praying maghrib and isha in the Masjid Al Nabawi, we straight away went to the hotel and slept as we planned to move to Makkah the next day. Our group was going to Makkah on 1 June, but I had taken permission from Jamal bhai to go to Makkah a day earlier.
( To be continued in Part 5)
References:
Times of India (2016, November 6) Oldest Indian Mosque: Trail leads to Gujarat. Available at: https://www.google.com/amp/s/timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad/oldest-indian-mosque-trail-leads-to-gujarat/amp_articleshow/55270285.cms.
Al Arabia English (2018, August 10) What’s the story of the seven mosques which pilgrims visit in Medina. Available at: https://english.alarabiya.net/features/2018/08/10/What-s-the-story-of-the-Seven-Mosques-which-pilgrims-visit-in-Medina-
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