Mohsin Aziz

On 31 May, after fajr prayer in Masjid Nabawi, we stayed for some time in the Masjid as this was our last day in Madina. We had a few hours at our disposal. We had done all the packing the night before. At 7 a.m. we came to the hotel and straight away went to the dining hall for breakfast. After breakfast we went to the nearby shops for last-minute shopping. By 9 a.m. we were back to the room again. We took a shower, and I put on ihram clothes. I deferred the niyah (intention) for miqaat. We were ready by 10.15 and called a taxi at 10.30. We were at the haramain railway station at 10.45 a.m. The taxi guy was a bangladeshi national. We paid 80 Saudi Riyal as fare. We had extra luggage. At the railway station, I hired a bangladeshi porters for 50 Saudi Riyals. The official fee is 25 Riyals. The railway station is big and very clean. The facilities are top-notch. There were enough washrooms, and they were very clean. For entry to the railway station, nusuk Card was a must. During hajj, it is not possible for foreigners to travel to Makkah without a nusuk card. The police on duty were very courteous. They always called pilgrims as hajji. Some pilgrims were already in ihraam while others were changing clothes with ihraam at the railway station. There were changing rooms available.

There was still some time for the train. There were seats available. We sat in the waiting area. The Porter came after some time and told us to go directly to our seat. He said he would be there with our luggage. When we got our passports and nusuk cards checked, we reached our coach, and our Porter was already present there. He had already put our luggage in the luggage rack. He enquired if I needed Porter service at Makkah station as well. When I said yes, he called some Porter at Makkah railway station and gave him our coach and seat number. He advised us to wait in the coach once we reached Makkah. We followed his instructions. The moment the train stopped at Makkah, one Porter came to our seat and gave the name of Madina Porter. By the time we came out of the coach, his friend had already put our luggage on trolley. It was very professional and personal service. I felt very good. At the exit, I had to pay official Porter fees at the service counter. I gave some extra money to the Porter.

Haramain High-speed railway is a passenger rail service connecting the holy cities of Makkah and Madina. It opened to the public on 11 October 2018. It touches speed up to 300 km per hour. The cost of the project was US 16 billion (Al Jazeera, 2018).

I had booked the harmain train economy ticket on 3 March 2025 itself. Seats were available at a very reasonable price. Two one-way tickets from Madina to Makkah cost only 27 Omani Rial (roughly 70 usd). I had booked on two different dates. I had tickets both for 31 May 2025 and 1 June 2025. Our Muallim decided to go to Makkah on 1 June 2025. I sought his permission to travel one day earlier, i.e., on 31 May. Once I got permission, I cancelled my ticket for 1 June. Many in our group tried to book train tickets after reaching Madina, but by that time, all the tickets were sold out. Only a few tickets were available for 2 pm, but each ticket was costing almost 70 Omani rial. There were two more families who were travelling on 31 May to Makkah.  One by train and one by flight and taxi via Jeddah. At this stage, I realised how difficult a job is to be a Muallim. We were eight people who decided to travel on our own and decided to travel one day earlier than the rest of the group. For travelling, Nusuk card was compulsory besides the passport. Jamal bhai had to go to the required ministry in Madina to get our Nusuk cards one day earlier so that we could travel without the group. It took him almost three hours for the same.

Our train from Madina was scheduled at 11.30 a.m. When I was booking the ticket, all the slots were available starting from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. The train runs every half an hour. After much deliberation, I decided to book 11.30 train so that there is no hurry in the morning and we are also not very late to reach Makkah. I wanted umrah to finish before isha prayers. 

When I travelled on Haramain, it touched a speed of 300 km per hour. The rest of the pilgrims in our coach were all Egyptians. The train started exactly on time. With 5 or 6 minutes, there was an announcement that we were about to reach Meeqat. When the train reached Meeqat, there was an announcement once again. I made the intention and recited the intention:

Labbaik Allahumma bi Umrah

(Here I am O Allah for Umrah)

There is more than one type of oral intentions  depending on the type of Hajj one is performing. I was performing Hajj Tamattu. For Hajj Tamattu, intention for Umrah is separate, and intention for Hajj is separate.

After that, I joined everyone in reciting the talbiyah.

Labbaik Allahumma Labbaik

(Here I am, O’ Allah, Here I am)

Labbaik La sharika laka Labbaik

(Here I am, You have no partner, Herei I am))

In al hamda wan nemata Laka wal Mulk

(Indeed, all praise and blessings a d sovereignty are Yours)

La sharika lak

(You have no partner)

As the train gently glided along its tracks, our fellow pilgrims, with hearts full of generosity, offered us some snacks. Among them were biscuits — simple in appearance – yet delightfully rich in taste. I took just one out of courtesy, but the flavour lingered so pleasantly that I instantly regretted not taking more. My wife had taken two. She also liked it very and refused to share.

In the spirit of sharing, I reached into my bag and brought out the dates I had carried from Madina — soft, sweet, and blessed by the soil of the Prophet’s city. I passed them around, and a quiet joy filled the compartment as we exchanged not just food but warmth and brotherhood.

The journey itself was smooth and serene, the train gliding like a whisper through the desert. A small pantry was tucked within one of the coaches, offering coffee and light refreshments to weary travellers. Occasionally, an attendant rolled a trolley down the aisle, gently announcing his arrival for anyone in need of a drink or a quick bite. It was not part of the ticket price. One had to separately pay for it.

It was a journey wrapped in comfort and companionship — a peaceful passage toward the sacred, made sweeter by the kindness of strangers.

As we stepped out of the railway station at Makkah, we were instantly surrounded by a group of eager taxi drivers, their eyes scanning for pilgrims like us. Voices rose in a chorus of offers, but the prices quoted were steep — 250 Saudi Riyals for a short ride of about 10 to 12 minutes. The amount struck me as excessive, and so began the customary negotiation under the blazing sun.

After much back-and-forth, I managed to bring the fare down to 150 Riyals — still more than what seemed fair to me. Hoping for a further reduction, I gently pressed the driver once more. He looked at me, smiled knowingly, and said with a calm, almost poetic grace, “Hajji, hadi Makkah wa hada mausam Hajj.” (“Hajji, this is Makkah, and this is the season of Hajj.”)

His words settled over me like the desert heat — undeniable and true. For many here, the season of Hajj is more than just sacred — it is also a rare chance to earn a livelihood, a fleeting window in which the city comes alive with both faith and commerce. In that moment, I realized the futility of haggling over a few Riyals in the sweltering midday sun.

I nodded in silent agreement and let go of the argument. More important than a few coins was our purpose — to reach the hotel swiftly, cleanse ourselves, and prepare our hearts for the Umrah. The Kaba was eagerly awaited, and nothing else mattered.

For Madina there are no special clothes required and there are no starting points. In fact, Madina is not part of Hajj. All the hajj rituals are confined to Makkah. But going to Makkah requires special preparations. Also, there are starting points from various directions. A pilgrim, either going for Umrah or for Hajj, has to be in special clothes before crossing these points. Also, the pilgrims need to make an intention. These entry points are called Meeqaat. A pilgrim is required to enter a state of spiritual purity before crossing points. Special clothes are required to be worn by men. Women are also required to be in spiritual purity and make intention before  crossing Meeqaat. However, there are no special clothing requirements for females. Before entering, every pilgrim has to be in the state of Ihraam. One remains in the state of Ihraam until the end of the pilgrimage.

There are no special clothes required for women. The only condition is that the clothes must be appropriate and modest. They should be loose and not body hugging. Clothes should cover hair, bossom, and back. There are no specific colours for females. Men must wear two pieces of unstiched white clothes. One piece is for the lower body and must be worn around the waist. The other is flung over the shoulders and covers the upper part. For both males and females, the face should not be covered. Females must cover hair while men must compulsorily keep their head exposed. Similarly, there are differences regarding shoes as well. Women can wear shoes. Men during the state of Ihraam can not wear closed shoes. They must wear slippers or sandals that keep the upper part of the leg exposed.

As far as the spiritual aspect is concerned, there are no differences. Both men and women have to abide by the exact same rules. Many things are permisible and halal and, in some cases, even required are not allowed during the state of Ihraam. It is not allowed in the state of Ihraam to cut hairs or nails. It is not allowed to use perfume or engage in intimate relationships for husband and wife. It is not allowed to cut trees or kill animals or insects. It is not allowed to do business or send a marriage proposal or marry.

As I mentioned earlier that Meeqaat is the starting point for Umrah and Hajj. There are five Mawaqeet (plural of Meeqaat). Each one is starting point for pilgrims coming from different directions. The five Meeqaats are:

– Zul Hulayfa: It is at masjid Al shajarah at Zul Hulayfa. It is a starting point for pilgrims coming from Madina. It is 424 kilometres from Makkah.

– Qarn Al Manazil: This is for people coming from Najd or from that direction. It is 82 kilometres from Makkah.

-Yalamlam: This is for people coming from Yemen or from that direction. It is 105 kilometres from Makkah.

– Dhat  Iraq: This is for people coming from Iran and Iraq or other places from that direction. It is 110 kilometres from Makkah.

-Al Juhfa: This is for people coming from Al Sham i.e. Syria, Palestine, Jordan, and other places from that direction. It is 179 kilometres from Makkah.Pilgrims either adorn Ihraam before crossing Meeqaat or at the Meeqat itself. Both are permisible. Before wearing Ihraam, it is better to take a shower and apply perfume on the body. Afterwards, two rakaat nafil salaat should be offered. Niyah or intention may be done after wearing this. It can be done from a journey starting point or at the Meeqaat. Once Niyah is done, a pilgrim is in the state of Ihraam. If a pilgrim crosses Meeqat without Ihraam, then he must pay dum (expiation).

For the residents of Makkah, Meeqaat is Masjid Aisha (also called Masjid Al Tanim),  which is about 9 kilometres from the Haram. Pilgrims coming from the rest of the world have to follow the five Meeqats for Umrah. The moment they fish their Umrah and come out of their Ihraam, they are considered residents of Makkah for as long as they stay in Makkah. If they wish to do a second or third or any number of additional Umrah, they can go to masjid aisha as residents of Makkah and enter into the state of Ihraam. Making use of this facility, many people do additional umrah in one journey.

The running time printed on the ticket was 2 hours and 15 minutes. However, the train reached Makkah in exactly 2 hours. While I was on the train and about to reach Makkah, Jamal bhai informed me about my room number. He had already informed the reception to keep my room ready. He had already reached Makkah to get things ready to relieve pilgrims on 1 June.

We reached our hotel by 2.30 p.m. It was lunchtime. The first thing I did after offering zuhr prayer was to go to the dining area and take lunch. The dining was relatively empty. There were few pilgrims from other countries staying at the hotel. My group was to come the next day. After lunch me and my wife and I immediately left for haram. Our hotel, M by Millennium, was on Ibrahim Khalil Road in Makkah. It was 2.8 km from the Haram. Makkah Clock Tower looked very close to the hotel. The hotel was very clean. The quality of food was very good. The room was spacious with two single beds.

Just outside our hotel, a taxi awaited as if destined for our sacred journey. For a modest fare of 20 Saudi Riyals, we began our short but momentous ride toward the heart of Makkah. In merely five minutes, the vehicle gently rolled to a stop at a police barrier — the point beyond which no car could venture. From there, as we had been told, the rest of the way would be on foot.

Retracing our steps on the return journey, we would again board a taxi from this very spot. But at that moment, our eyes and hearts were fixed ahead — for just a two-minute walk stood between us and the most hallowed place on Earth.

Each step brought me closer to a dream I had long held in the quiet corners of my soul. As I approached the elevator before the Haram, anticipation surged like a tide. Moments later, I was standing before the majestic Kaba — the House of Allah — bathed in the golden glow of reverence and serenity.

Time seemed to pause. My heart swelled with awe, disbelief, and overwhelming gratitude. After years of longing, praying, and imagining, the vision I had carried within me had come to life. Yet even as I stood there, eyes wide and spirit humbled, part of me still wondered if it was real — for no dream had ever felt this powerful.

Allahumma zid hadha-l-Bayta tashrifan

wa ta’ziman wa takriman wa mahabah,

wa zid man sharrafahu

wa karramahu mimman hajjahu awi- ‘tamarahu

tashrifan wa takriman wa ta’ziman wa birra.

O Allah increase this house in honour and ennoblement, reverence and awe, And increase the one who honours and ennobles it, of those who travel to it for Hajj and Umrah, in honour, reverence and piety.

(To be continued in Part 6)

References:

Al Jazeera (2018, September 26) Saudi Arabia  opens high-speed rail linking islams holiest sites. Available at: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.aljazeera.com/amp/news/2018/9/26/saudi-arabia-opens-high-speed-rail-linking-islams-holiest-cities