Madina

Labbaik: The story of my Hajj (Part 5)

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Mohsin Aziz

On 31 May, after fajr prayer in Masjid Nabawi, we stayed for some time in the Masjid as this was our last day in Madina. We had a few hours at our disposal. We had done all the packing the night before. At 7 a.m. we came to the hotel and straight away went to the dining hall for breakfast. After breakfast we went to the nearby shops for last-minute shopping. By 9 a.m. we were back to the room again. We took a shower, and I put on ihram clothes. I deferred the niyah (intention) for miqaat. We were ready by 10.15 and called a taxi at 10.30. We were at the haramain railway station at 10.45 a.m. The taxi guy was a bangladeshi national. We paid 80 Saudi Riyal as fare. We had extra luggage. At the railway station, I hired a bangladeshi porters for 50 Saudi Riyals. The official fee is 25 Riyals. The railway station is big and very clean. The facilities are top-notch. There were enough washrooms, and they were very clean. For entry to the railway station, nusuk Card was a must. During hajj, it is not possible for foreigners to travel to Makkah without a nusuk card. The police on duty were very courteous. They always called pilgrims as hajji. Some pilgrims were already in ihraam while others were changing clothes with ihraam at the railway station. There were changing rooms available.

There was still some time for the train. There were seats available. We sat in the waiting area. The Porter came after some time and told us to go directly to our seat. He said he would be there with our luggage. When we got our passports and nusuk cards checked, we reached our coach, and our Porter was already present there. He had already put our luggage in the luggage rack. He enquired if I needed Porter service at Makkah station as well. When I said yes, he called some Porter at Makkah railway station and gave him our coach and seat number. He advised us to wait in the coach once we reached Makkah. We followed his instructions. The moment the train stopped at Makkah, one Porter came to our seat and gave the name of Madina Porter. By the time we came out of the coach, his friend had already put our luggage on trolley. It was very professional and personal service. I felt very good. At the exit, I had to pay official Porter fees at the service counter. I gave some extra money to the Porter.

Haramain High-speed railway is a passenger rail service connecting the holy cities of Makkah and Madina. It opened to the public on 11 October 2018. It touches speed up to 300 km per hour. The cost of the project was US 16 billion (Al Jazeera, 2018).

I had booked the harmain train economy ticket on 3 March 2025 itself. Seats were available at a very reasonable price. Two one-way tickets from Madina to Makkah cost only 27 Omani Rial (roughly 70 usd). I had booked on two different dates. I had tickets both for 31 May 2025 and 1 June 2025. Our Muallim decided to go to Makkah on 1 June 2025. I sought his permission to travel one day earlier, i.e., on 31 May. Once I got permission, I cancelled my ticket for 1 June. Many in our group tried to book train tickets after reaching Madina, but by that time, all the tickets were sold out. Only a few tickets were available for 2 pm, but each ticket was costing almost 70 Omani rial. There were two more families who were travelling on 31 May to Makkah.  One by train and one by flight and taxi via Jeddah. At this stage, I realised how difficult a job is to be a Muallim. We were eight people who decided to travel on our own and decided to travel one day earlier than the rest of the group. For travelling, Nusuk card was compulsory besides the passport. Jamal bhai had to go to the required ministry in Madina to get our Nusuk cards one day earlier so that we could travel without the group. It took him almost three hours for the same.

Our train from Madina was scheduled at 11.30 a.m. When I was booking the ticket, all the slots were available starting from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. The train runs every half an hour. After much deliberation, I decided to book 11.30 train so that there is no hurry in the morning and we are also not very late to reach Makkah. I wanted umrah to finish before isha prayers. 

When I travelled on Haramain, it touched a speed of 300 km per hour. The rest of the pilgrims in our coach were all Egyptians. The train started exactly on time. With 5 or 6 minutes, there was an announcement that we were about to reach Meeqat. When the train reached Meeqat, there was an announcement once again. I made the intention and recited the intention:

Labbaik Allahumma bi Umrah

(Here I am O Allah for Umrah)

There is more than one type of oral intentions  depending on the type of Hajj one is performing. I was performing Hajj Tamattu. For Hajj Tamattu, intention for Umrah is separate, and intention for Hajj is separate.

After that, I joined everyone in reciting the talbiyah.

Labbaik Allahumma Labbaik

(Here I am, O’ Allah, Here I am)

Labbaik La sharika laka Labbaik

(Here I am, You have no partner, Herei I am))

In al hamda wan nemata Laka wal Mulk

(Indeed, all praise and blessings a d sovereignty are Yours)

La sharika lak

(You have no partner)

As the train gently glided along its tracks, our fellow pilgrims, with hearts full of generosity, offered us some snacks. Among them were biscuits — simple in appearance – yet delightfully rich in taste. I took just one out of courtesy, but the flavour lingered so pleasantly that I instantly regretted not taking more. My wife had taken two. She also liked it very and refused to share.

In the spirit of sharing, I reached into my bag and brought out the dates I had carried from Madina — soft, sweet, and blessed by the soil of the Prophet’s city. I passed them around, and a quiet joy filled the compartment as we exchanged not just food but warmth and brotherhood.

The journey itself was smooth and serene, the train gliding like a whisper through the desert. A small pantry was tucked within one of the coaches, offering coffee and light refreshments to weary travellers. Occasionally, an attendant rolled a trolley down the aisle, gently announcing his arrival for anyone in need of a drink or a quick bite. It was not part of the ticket price. One had to separately pay for it.

It was a journey wrapped in comfort and companionship — a peaceful passage toward the sacred, made sweeter by the kindness of strangers.

As we stepped out of the railway station at Makkah, we were instantly surrounded by a group of eager taxi drivers, their eyes scanning for pilgrims like us. Voices rose in a chorus of offers, but the prices quoted were steep — 250 Saudi Riyals for a short ride of about 10 to 12 minutes. The amount struck me as excessive, and so began the customary negotiation under the blazing sun.

After much back-and-forth, I managed to bring the fare down to 150 Riyals — still more than what seemed fair to me. Hoping for a further reduction, I gently pressed the driver once more. He looked at me, smiled knowingly, and said with a calm, almost poetic grace, “Hajji, hadi Makkah wa hada mausam Hajj.” (“Hajji, this is Makkah, and this is the season of Hajj.”)

His words settled over me like the desert heat — undeniable and true. For many here, the season of Hajj is more than just sacred — it is also a rare chance to earn a livelihood, a fleeting window in which the city comes alive with both faith and commerce. In that moment, I realized the futility of haggling over a few Riyals in the sweltering midday sun.

I nodded in silent agreement and let go of the argument. More important than a few coins was our purpose — to reach the hotel swiftly, cleanse ourselves, and prepare our hearts for the Umrah. The Kaba was eagerly awaited, and nothing else mattered.

For Madina there are no special clothes required and there are no starting points. In fact, Madina is not part of Hajj. All the hajj rituals are confined to Makkah. But going to Makkah requires special preparations. Also, there are starting points from various directions. A pilgrim, either going for Umrah or for Hajj, has to be in special clothes before crossing these points. Also, the pilgrims need to make an intention. These entry points are called Meeqaat. A pilgrim is required to enter a state of spiritual purity before crossing points. Special clothes are required to be worn by men. Women are also required to be in spiritual purity and make intention before  crossing Meeqaat. However, there are no special clothing requirements for females. Before entering, every pilgrim has to be in the state of Ihraam. One remains in the state of Ihraam until the end of the pilgrimage.

There are no special clothes required for women. The only condition is that the clothes must be appropriate and modest. They should be loose and not body hugging. Clothes should cover hair, bossom, and back. There are no specific colours for females. Men must wear two pieces of unstiched white clothes. One piece is for the lower body and must be worn around the waist. The other is flung over the shoulders and covers the upper part. For both males and females, the face should not be covered. Females must cover hair while men must compulsorily keep their head exposed. Similarly, there are differences regarding shoes as well. Women can wear shoes. Men during the state of Ihraam can not wear closed shoes. They must wear slippers or sandals that keep the upper part of the leg exposed.

As far as the spiritual aspect is concerned, there are no differences. Both men and women have to abide by the exact same rules. Many things are permisible and halal and, in some cases, even required are not allowed during the state of Ihraam. It is not allowed in the state of Ihraam to cut hairs or nails. It is not allowed to use perfume or engage in intimate relationships for husband and wife. It is not allowed to cut trees or kill animals or insects. It is not allowed to do business or send a marriage proposal or marry.

As I mentioned earlier that Meeqaat is the starting point for Umrah and Hajj. There are five Mawaqeet (plural of Meeqaat). Each one is starting point for pilgrims coming from different directions. The five Meeqaats are:

– Zul Hulayfa: It is at masjid Al shajarah at Zul Hulayfa. It is a starting point for pilgrims coming from Madina. It is 424 kilometres from Makkah.

– Qarn Al Manazil: This is for people coming from Najd or from that direction. It is 82 kilometres from Makkah.

-Yalamlam: This is for people coming from Yemen or from that direction. It is 105 kilometres from Makkah.

– Dhat  Iraq: This is for people coming from Iran and Iraq or other places from that direction. It is 110 kilometres from Makkah.

-Al Juhfa: This is for people coming from Al Sham i.e. Syria, Palestine, Jordan, and other places from that direction. It is 179 kilometres from Makkah.Pilgrims either adorn Ihraam before crossing Meeqaat or at the Meeqat itself. Both are permisible. Before wearing Ihraam, it is better to take a shower and apply perfume on the body. Afterwards, two rakaat nafil salaat should be offered. Niyah or intention may be done after wearing this. It can be done from a journey starting point or at the Meeqaat. Once Niyah is done, a pilgrim is in the state of Ihraam. If a pilgrim crosses Meeqat without Ihraam, then he must pay dum (expiation).

For the residents of Makkah, Meeqaat is Masjid Aisha (also called Masjid Al Tanim),  which is about 9 kilometres from the Haram. Pilgrims coming from the rest of the world have to follow the five Meeqats for Umrah. The moment they fish their Umrah and come out of their Ihraam, they are considered residents of Makkah for as long as they stay in Makkah. If they wish to do a second or third or any number of additional Umrah, they can go to masjid aisha as residents of Makkah and enter into the state of Ihraam. Making use of this facility, many people do additional umrah in one journey.

The running time printed on the ticket was 2 hours and 15 minutes. However, the train reached Makkah in exactly 2 hours. While I was on the train and about to reach Makkah, Jamal bhai informed me about my room number. He had already informed the reception to keep my room ready. He had already reached Makkah to get things ready to relieve pilgrims on 1 June.

We reached our hotel by 2.30 p.m. It was lunchtime. The first thing I did after offering zuhr prayer was to go to the dining area and take lunch. The dining was relatively empty. There were few pilgrims from other countries staying at the hotel. My group was to come the next day. After lunch me and my wife and I immediately left for haram. Our hotel, M by Millennium, was on Ibrahim Khalil Road in Makkah. It was 2.8 km from the Haram. Makkah Clock Tower looked very close to the hotel. The hotel was very clean. The quality of food was very good. The room was spacious with two single beds.

Just outside our hotel, a taxi awaited as if destined for our sacred journey. For a modest fare of 20 Saudi Riyals, we began our short but momentous ride toward the heart of Makkah. In merely five minutes, the vehicle gently rolled to a stop at a police barrier — the point beyond which no car could venture. From there, as we had been told, the rest of the way would be on foot.

Retracing our steps on the return journey, we would again board a taxi from this very spot. But at that moment, our eyes and hearts were fixed ahead — for just a two-minute walk stood between us and the most hallowed place on Earth.

Each step brought me closer to a dream I had long held in the quiet corners of my soul. As I approached the elevator before the Haram, anticipation surged like a tide. Moments later, I was standing before the majestic Kaba — the House of Allah — bathed in the golden glow of reverence and serenity.

Time seemed to pause. My heart swelled with awe, disbelief, and overwhelming gratitude. After years of longing, praying, and imagining, the vision I had carried within me had come to life. Yet even as I stood there, eyes wide and spirit humbled, part of me still wondered if it was real — for no dream had ever felt this powerful.

Allahumma zid hadha-l-Bayta tashrifan

wa ta’ziman wa takriman wa mahabah,

wa zid man sharrafahu

wa karramahu mimman hajjahu awi- ‘tamarahu

tashrifan wa takriman wa ta’ziman wa birra.

O Allah increase this house in honour and ennoblement, reverence and awe, And increase the one who honours and ennobles it, of those who travel to it for Hajj and Umrah, in honour, reverence and piety.

(To be continued in Part 6)

References:

Al Jazeera (2018, September 26) Saudi Arabia  opens high-speed rail linking islams holiest sites. Available at: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.aljazeera.com/amp/news/2018/9/26/saudi-arabia-opens-high-speed-rail-linking-islams-holiest-cities

Labbaik: The story of my Hajj (Part 4)

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Mohsin Aziz

On the 29th night, we received a message from Asif bhai that the Rowdah group appointment for ladies has been confirmed for the next day, i.e., 30 May. The time allotted was 6 a.m. to 6.19 a.m. Ladies were requested to be present 30 minutes prior at the Gate number 37 of Masjid Al Nabawi, which is also called Bab Makkah on the side of the Baqia Cemetery. As I had already visited Gate 37 twice, it was easy for us. After Fajr Prayer, we stayed in the Masjid and at 5.45, reached Gate 37. Murad Al Balushi, one of the Muallims, was present there with the list of approved names. There was excitement bordering on coomotion amongst ladies in the anticipation of visiting the Rowdah. At appointed time, my wife went inside. From yesterday’s experience, I knew that she would not be out before half an hour. Instead of waiting in the compound of the Masjid, I decided to visit Baqia cemetery as it is near gate 37.

Baqia al Gharqad

Before the arrival of Prophet to Madina, Al Baqi was full of boxthorn (gharqad in arabic),  hence the name baqia al gharqad. It was cleared and made cemetery  by the Prophet. Some of the prominent companions who are buried there are: Hazrat Aisha Siddiqa (third wife of the Prophet), Hazrat Othman bin Affan, Hazrat Hafsa bin Umar(fourth wife oftheProphet), Imam Hasan ibn Ali (grandson of the Prophet), Zainab bint Mohammad(daughter of theProphet), Ruqayya bint Mohammad (daughter oftheProphet), Umm Kulthum bint Mohammad (daughter oftheProphet), Fatma Al Zahra bint Mohammad (daughter of theProphet), Ibrahim ibn Mohammad (son oftheProphet), Sawdah bint Zamah (second wife oftheProphet), Zainab bint Khuzayma (fifth wife of the Prophet), Umm Salama (sixth wifeoftheProphet), Zainab bint Jahsh (seventh wifeoftheProphet), Juwairiyya bint Harith (eighth wifeoftheProphet), Umm Habiba (ninth wife of the Prophet), Safiyya bint Huyyay (tenth wife of the Prophet), Mariya al Qabtiya (last wife of the prophet), Halima al Sadiya (wet mother of the Prophet, Abdullah ibn Masud, Abu Huraira. The list is very long.

Next to Masjid Al Nabawi lies a building where the bodies of the departed are kept before being taken to their final resting place in the blessed grounds of Jannat al-Baqi. The easiest way to enter Baqi is to accompany a funeral procession. Otherwise, gates open only at set hours.

It was my luck that the gates were open. I followed the queue and stepped stepped inside.  Though I have walked through many cemeteries before, attended funerals, and stood by the side of loved ones being laid in their graves for their final journey  into eternity, this felt totally different. I was not merely in a burial ground. I was in a place sanctified by the presence of thousands of the Prophet’s companions, the noble Sahaba and the revered Sahabiyat who found their final resting place here.

The air itself felt sacred. It was difficult  to contain my emotions. Each stone, each mound of earth, each grave, was a story in itself. Stories of faith, undying love for the Prophet and stories of sacrifice and unheard of valour.

An untold stillness engulfed me. My heart felt heavy. Yet I felt uplifted as this was not a place of sorrow but of longing fulfilled. Millions of Muslims across the ages have prayed for the honour of dying in Madina and being laid to rest in Baqi al-Gharqad. Just the fact that I was standing there felt so uplifting.

Madina

Madina is an old settlement with history going back to 1500 years before prophets migration to the city, making it almost three millenia old city. Being an oasis city, it attracted people who settled there over tome. Before Hijra, Madina was inhabited by various prominent tribes such as Aws, Khazraj, Banu Qaynuqa, Banu Nadir, and Banu Qurayza. After the establishment of the Islamic state at Madina, it became the world’s first capital of an Islamic state.

Madina gained prominence after Hazrat Mohammad (s.a.w.) migrated there to preach Islam when it became difficult to practice and preach Islam in Makkah. The old name of Madina is Yathrib. Today, the name is not in use as the Prophet prohibited ftom using the name. There are several names of Madina, some more commonly used, while some are not so common. Some of the other names of Madina are:

Madinat un Nabi (city of the Prophet)

Madina al Munawwara (the illuminated city)

Ardh ul hijra (the land of migration)

Bait ur Rasool (the house of the Prophet)

Darul abrar (the abode of good people)

Dar us Saman (the house of faith)

Darul hijra (the place of migration)

Medina means a city in Arabic. Madina is used as a prefix with many cities and neighbourhoods in the Arab speaking world such as Madinat Al Sultan Qaboos in Oman. Besides Arab world, Muslims carried the name to far away places where they went. Spain is one such example. When muslim rule was established in Spain, the first Umayyid Caliph of Andalus made his capital city called Madinat al Zahra near the modern-day city of Cordoba. Over period of time, the word Medina became an integral part of the Spanish language. Today Spain has cities with Madina uaed as prefix. Some prominent examples are Medinat al Zahra, Medina del Campo, Medina Sidonia, Medina de Pomar, and Medina de Rioseco. In the wider Spanish speaking world, Medina is a common given name for girls. Annabel Medina Garrigues is a famous Olympic cyclist from Spain. Today, Medina is gender neutral name in the wider Spanish speaking world. The former Gauemalan president was Danilo Medina Sanchez, while Jose Tomas Medina Menendez was vice president of El Salvador.

Masjid Al Nabawi

When the Prophet migrated from Makkah to Madina, his first venture in Madina was construction of a mosque where Muslims could pray. The land for the Masjid was bought from two orphans who were owners of the land. They insisted on not taking any money, but the Prophet gave them money. The land was purchased, and construction began in earnest. The Prophet also participated in its construction. The original mosque was made of mud and palm fronds.  Today, it is the second biggest mosque in the world visited by millions every year. It is among the three mosques for which a Muslim can travel to pray there. The other two are: Masjid Al Haram and Masjid Al Aqsa.

Other Masajids and places of importance

Besides Masjid Al Nabawi, Madina has several historical mosques and places. Here are some of the more prominent ones. These are usually part of ziyarat tour packages and may be covered in half a day tour.

Masjid Quba

When Prophet migrated to Medina along with Abu Bakr Al Siddiq, he first stayed for a few days at the outskirts of Medina at a place called Quba. The Prophet laid the foundation of the first Masjid in Islam, which is known as Masjid Quba. According to a hadith of the Prophet praying two rakaat salaat in Masjid Quba is akin to performing Umrah.

Masjid Qiblatain (Mosque of two directions)

Masjid Qiblatain holds a unique place in Islamic history. Today it us not just a physical structure but a symbol of divine direction and spiritual obedience. It was here, during prayer, that the Prophet received revelation to change the qibla (direction of prayer) from Jerusalem to the Kaaba in Makkah. He turned mid prayer. The congregation behind him followed. It was an act of pure submission. It is a powerful reminder of changing the course of ones life without second thought.

Standing within its walls today, one can not help but feel the weight of that moment. It was not merely a change in physical orientation but a turning point in the identity of the Muslim ummah. It was done quietly.  But it was a declaration of spiritual independence. It symbolised realignment towards the heart of Tawheed.

Masjid Qiblatain invites reflection. How willing are we to turn, to change course,  when truth is made clear to us? Can we, like the Prophet and his companions, shift our direction in life with humility and conviction?

The story of Masjid Qiblatain reminds us that times and situations may come in our lives when faith is not in staying the course but in having the courage to change.

In common folklore, the Cheraman Juma Masjid in the state of Kerala is considered to be the first mosque of India believed to be constructed during the lifetime of the Prophet. However, there is one known mosque in Indian known Juni Masjid or Badwada Masjid at Ghogha in the state of Gujarat that has Qibla pointing towards Jerusalem, signifying its building before Qibla was changed (Times of India, 2016).

There is another mosque in Salalah in the Dhofar Governorate of the Sultanate of Oman that has two Qibla’s, one pointing towards Jerusalem and the pointing towards Mecca It is next to the grave of Prophet Ayyub a.s. (Prophet Job).  It’s a very small mosque, open to sky, without roof. It is made of Stones. I have prayer zuhr and asr prayers in 2012 in this masjid.

Sab’a Masajid:

Sab’a in Arabic means seven. Sab’a Masajid is a cluster of six mosques that are in very close proximity to each other. They are referred to as seven mosques because, originally, there were seven mosques. They are situated at the place of famous Ghazwa e Khandaq (battle of trenches).  The misques are sutuated at places where companions of the prophet were located. They are located on the western side of the Sala mountain where the trench was made. The six masajid are:

  1. Al Fath masjid: This is the largest of the six. It is also called Al Ahzab masjid. It is built over a hill. It is at the spot where the Prophet prayed during the Ghazw e Ahzab (battle of the confederates). The reason for being called the Al Fath masjid is because it is also the spot where Surah Al Fath was revealed during the Ghazwa of Ahzab (Al Arabia English, 2018, August 10).
  2. Salman Al Farsi Masjid: This is named after one of the famous companions of the Prophet: Salman al Farsi (Salman the Persian). It was the idea of Salman al Farsi (R.A.A.) to dig a trench. He was a seeker of truth. His story of searching truth and finding it in Madina after years and years of travelling and searching truth is most inspiring. In the fifth year of Hijra, the Jewish leaders of Madina made an alliance with the polytheists of Makkah to attack Muslims as a combined force and finish Islam once for all. 24000 army from Macca advanced to Madina to attack from outside. The Jews of Banu Qurayzah were to attack from inside. It was a battle if survival for the Muslims. Quran describes it in the following words: When they came upon you from above and from below you,  and when  the eyes grew wild  and tbe heats reached to the throats, and you were harbouring doubts about Allah. There, the believers were tried and shaken with a mighty shake (Quran, Al Ahzab:10-11). The Prophet gathered his companions for consultation. Salman Al Farsi suggested that it would be advisable to dig trenches at vulnerable spots. It was a new idea for the Arab. Prophet accepted the advice, and the trench was dug circling Madina. When the Maccan army came to Madina did not know what to do. They pitched their tents on the other side of the trench in order to wear the muslim army down. One month passed in this battle of nerves. A heavy storm stuck after one month destroying much of the Maccan armies tents, thus forcing them to retreat. On the day of Al Khandaq, the Ansar claimed that Salman belonged to them while the Muhajiroon claimed that Salman belonged to them. The Prophet declared,’Salman is of us, of Ahl al Bayt’. What an honour. On his death, Ali ibn Ali Talib said,’There was a man among the Ahl al Bayt who was like Luqman the Wise (Hakim Luqman).
  3. Abu Bakr Al Siddiq Masjid: Named after the first Caliph and a close companion of the Prophet.
  4. Omar bin Khattab Masjid: Named after the second Caliph and a close companion of the Prophet.
  5. Ali ibn Abi Talib Masjid: Named after the fourth Caliph, close companion, cousin, and beloved son in law of the Prophet.
  6. Fatma al Zahra Masjid: Named after the most beloved daughter of the Prophet, Leader of Ladies in the Paradise.
  7. There is a dispute among scholars about the seventh masjid. Some believe the seventh has been lost, while some believe the seventh is the Qiblatain Masjid, which has a very important position in the history of Islam.

Bir Rumah or Bir Othman

There are moments in history that shimmer with quiet greatness — acts so selfless and profound that they ripple through time, touching hearts centuries later. One such moment unfolded in the early days of Islam, when the Muhajirun — the emigrants from Makkah — arrived in Madina with little more than their faith and their trust in the Prophet.

They had given up everything — homes, wealth, even the safety of familiarity — for the sake of a belief. But even in this city of sanctuary, hardship awaited. Among the most basic yet painful struggles was the search for drinking water. The climate was harsh, and water, that most essential of blessings, was not easily found.

There was one well — Bir Rumah— whose water was sweet and abundant, but it belonged to a man who either denied access or demanded a price few could afford. And so, the thirst of the faithful remained unquenched, turning each day into a quiet trial.

The Prophet, seeing the burden placed upon his companions, did not command, but instead extended a call, gentle yet eternal:
“Who will purchase this well for the Muslims? For him, Allah will grant a fountain in Paradise.”

It was a call that transcended wealth and reached into the soul.

And Uthman ibn Affan, may Allah be pleased with him — a man known not for loud declarations but for the quiet dignity of his deeds — answered. Without hesitation, he purchased the well for twenty thousand dirhams and gave it freely to the community. No conditions. No expectations. Just pure charity for the sake of Allah.

Reflecting on this act, I am struck not only by its generosity but by the clarity of purpose it reveals. Uthman saw the suffering of others and responded not with words, but with action. His wealth became a bridge between this world and the next — a source of ease for the thirsty on earth, and a promised spring in the eternal gardens of Jannah.

Over time, the area around the well began to flourish. Date palms rose from the soil, their roots nourished by the same water that once flowed through the hands of Uthman. Nature itself seemed to honor the deed — offering shade and sweetness where once there was only thirst.

It makes one wonder: how many people drank from that well over the years? How many prayers were whispered in gratitude? And how many unseen blessings continue to flow from that one selfless act?

In a world often driven by transaction and return, Uthman’s gift was a reminder that some things are meant to be given freely — not for praise, not for gain, but for the quiet satisfaction of self.

Later, the Ottomans paid interest in it and attended to the palm trees. Later, the Saudi government took care of it and planted more trees. Saudi government, through the Ministry of Agriculture, would sell the dates in the market and divide the proceed money in two equal halves.  One half was distributed among the orphans and the poor, while the other half was put in a special account in the name of Othman bin Affan. The account is overseen by the Ministry of Endowment. The amount kept accumulating in Othman bin Affan account until it became a substantial amount that was used to buy land in a prominent area near Masjid Al Nabawi. The land has been bought under the name of Othman bin Affan. The Saudi government has constructed a 4-star hotel on this land. It was aptly named Waqf Outhman bin Affan Hotel (www.waqfouthmanbinaffanhotel.com). The proceeds from the hotel are divided into two equal halves. One half goes to the orphans and the poor while the other half goes to Othman bin Affan’s bank account.  What a profitable investment Hazrat Othman made. Indeed, trade with Allah is always a profitable venture.

Bir Rumah is perhaps the longest continuous waqf in Islamic history (www.awqaf.sa.org)

Mount Uhud

An important landmark of Madina related to islamic history is Mount Uhud. It is where the famous battle of Uhud was fought in which the brilliance of Khalid ibn Waleed (he had still not accepted Islam and was a leading commander of Meccan army) led to the disarray amongst Muslims. Uhud was very dear to the Prophet.

Shopping in Madina

Anybody on Hajj or Unrah trip buys gifts for friends and family back home. I also bought gifts from Bin Dawood. It is perhaps the most well-known shopping centre close to Masjid Al Nabawi. It is adjacent to the ladies’ prsyer area of MasjidAlNabawi. It is very popular, and pilgrims can find all their requirements related to hajj, umrah, and a variety of gifts, dates, and toys for relatives back home. We bought a robot that my wife promised to our son as a gift from Hajj. We also bought all the dates that we expected to distribute to friends and family back home. Besides the gifts, we bought a few things which we thought were required for Hajj, such as a plastic folding carpet for Muzdalifa. All these things are available in Makkah, but we did not want to waste our time searching for these things in Makkah. It was on our way to our hotel in Madina, making it very convenient and time-saving.

After praying maghrib and isha in the Masjid Al Nabawi, we straight away went to the hotel and slept as we planned to move to Makkah the next day. Our group was going to Makkah on 1 June, but I had taken permission from Jamal bhai to go to Makkah a day earlier.

( To be continued in Part 5)

References:

Times of India (2016, November 6) Oldest Indian Mosque: Trail leads to Gujarat. Available at: https://www.google.com/amp/s/timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/ahmedabad/oldest-indian-mosque-trail-leads-to-gujarat/amp_articleshow/55270285.cms.

Al Arabia English (2018, August 10) What’s the story of the seven mosques which pilgrims visit in Medina. Available at: https://english.alarabiya.net/features/2018/08/10/What-s-the-story-of-the-Seven-Mosques-which-pilgrims-visit-in-Medina-

http://www.awqaf.sa.org

http://www.waqfouthmanbinaffanhotel.com

Labbaik: The story of my Hajj (Part 3)

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Mohsin Aziz

In the flight everybody was quiet. Some were praying, and some were reading the Quran. I plugged in my earpods and put Quran on the Aeroplanes audio system, closed my eyes, and listened to the recitation in the voice of Hafiz Mishary Rashid Al Afasy. It was so relaxing and comforting. After one hour, food was served, which was pretty decent. Our journey had started on positive note.

The flight was pretty smooth, and I slept for a while. I woke up to the announcement that the decent for Madina has started. Suddenly, the aeroplane started shaking a lot and moving sideways just before landing. Everybody started saying prayers. The plane landed a few minutes later. There were innumerable Hajj flights besides the regular flights at Madina Airport. Gallery was not available for our Aeroplane. Stairs were put, and we were asked to disembark. The moment I came outside, I realised it was very windy outside, so much so that I found it difficult to use the steps. It was heavy wind. Maybe that’s why the Aeroplane was moving sideways before landing. Our flight had landed at 6 p.m. Saudi time. It was late by 5 minutes. The flight duration was 3 hour 5 minutes.

Checkout from the airport was very quick and smooth. We realised we were in a departure area instead of the arrival area. It was very small. I used Madina Airport before in 2015 for my Umrah. The new Madina Airport is quite big. There were four counters working, and only passengers from our flight were being serviced, hence the quick checkout. The policemen at the passport control were not only very quick but also very polite. They greeted us and made dua for our Hajj to be Hajj Mabroor. When we finished passport control, we were asked by our muallims to wait in a small waiting area. After about 15 minutes of confusion, we were asked to go out and sit in buses parked outside.

There were 6 buses waiting outside. On each bus banner of Al Jazeera for Hajj and Umrah was present on both sides. Besides, the buses were very clearly numbered from 1 to 6. We were told yo sit in any of the buses. Me and my wife sat in bus number 3. We were told not to bother about our luggage. We were told that our luggage would be loaded on any of the 6 busses by the workers of the airport under the supervision of Musllims present. After about 15 minutes, some Saudi from the Hajj management came and counted the passengers. We were told that once all the passengers ftom our flight are accounted for by the Saudi authorities, our busses will be allowed to move. Some more time passed, but there was no moment. It was about one hour since we landed. People were sitting in the bus for almost half an hour. They started getting agitated. They had left their home at about 10 a.m. in the morning in Muscat. Many had come from other cities, driving to Muscat for 2 to 4 hours. Yet there were some who came from Salalah by flight. It was already a lengthy journey for them. Salalah is about 1100 kilometres from Muscat. Flight takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes. At around 7.30 p.m. one Muallim came and announced that for each Muallim, buses have been identified, and pilgrims must go to the bus identified for their respective Muallims. Me and my wife were under Asif bhai. Bus number 2 was allotted to him. We were further told now that until our departure from Saudia, we have to sir in the same bus with our Muallim to avoid any further confusion.

We disembarked from bus number 3 to go to bus number 2. There were pilgrims all over in the parking lot moving from one bus to another. The whole process took about 15 minutes. By 7.45 p.m. we were settled in our respective buses. After about 15 minutes again, one person came and started counting passengers. We thought now we are good to go. But it was not to be. After some time, one of the Muallim, Mr. Murad Al Balushi came to our bus and told us that now the buses are allotted as per Muallim it would be better that we go down and identify our luggage so thst it can be kept in our bus otherwise it woukd be a chaos at the hotel.  It was already brought to the parking area and kept together at one place. I went down and identified my luggage, which was then brought to my bus by one of the airport workers and loaded in bus number 2. Now we were confident that everything was done and the buses would move. But we were wrong. A Saudi guy came along with Murad bhai and told us to give our passports to him. I immediately gave my wife’s and my passport to him. Others followed suit. However, a few pilgrims refused to give passports. People were really tired by thus time and some of them started showing anger as well. At this point, Jamal bhai came and told us that unless Saudi authorities collect passports of all the pilgrims and match with the list of names, they would not allow the buses to move. Saudi authorities required passports for making nusuk cards.

Nusuk card

After multiple deaths in Hajj 2024, the Saudi government launched a major drive to stop people from doing hajj without permission. For all the registered pilgrims, Nusuk cards were issued this time. Most deaths that occurred in Hajj 2024 were among the unregistered who did not had access to air-conditioned tents and succumbed due to very high temperatures. The card was issued by the Saudi authorities to every haji this year. Hajis were expected to always carry the card with them. Anytime police could stop the hajis and demand to see nusuk Card. Once my taxi from Haram to the hotel in makkah was stopped and our nusuk cards were checked. The fine for those found doing hajj without nusuk was 20000 Saudi Riyal, while the fine for those assisting unauthorised hajj pilgrims was 100000 Saudi Riyal. The frequent checking reduced the number of pilgrims this year, and only about 1.6 million performed Hajj.

Finally, all the pilgrims gave their passports. The next round of wait started, and some of the pilgrims started getting agitated. Jamal bhai came again and gave a small pep talk telling us about the virtues of sabr during Hajj. It was at this time time that he told us that some of our co-pilgrims, including Asif bhai, have still not got their visa and are waiting in Muscat. He told us to pray for ourselves and for those who have been left behind and be thankful to Allah that we are not in Muscat, not knowing whether we will be able to go on Hajj or not. After that, everyone calmed down. Finally at 9.45 our bus moved. The streets of Madina were empty. We reached our hotel, Sheza Regency Plaza, at 10.15 p.m. While waiting on the bus, we were already told about our room numbers by Asif bhai through whattsapp. Whole going to the hotel Jamal bhai gave us our room keys which were with him. He was already in Madina for a few days making arrangements and had collected all the keys.

The moment we reached the hotel, Jamal bhai told us to first take dinner instead of going to our rooms or collecting our luggage. We were very tired and very hungry and the hotel dinner time was already over. The hotel staff were staying back and waiting for us to take dinner before shift change. It was very considerate of them. The dinner was very good and in enough quantity and variety. By the time we finished dinner, our luggage had already been put in the hotel lobby. I collected my luggage and went to my room. It was already 10.45 p.m. Hotel Shaza turned out to be a very good hotel. It was exactly a 5-minute walk to gate number 310 of Masjid al Nabawi.

Isha in Masjid Al Nabawi

Although we were very tired but after dinner, we decided to go to the Masjid Nabawi for isha prayers. It was 10 minutes past 11 p.m. but there were still a lot of people in the Masjid. The giant umbrellas were closed, and the whole Masjid was lit up with innumerable lights. After finishing my prayers, I just sat in the outer courtyard of the Masjid. It was so peaceful. One could see people from all over the world. Some were praying while some were reading the Quran. There were many who were talking on mobiles and showing their loved ones back home the Masjid through video call. By 12, we were back in our room.

After leaving my wife at the hotel, I went out to get Saudi sim cards. All the major Saudi mobile service providers have offices near Masjid Nabawi. I took two sim cards. For buying sim, only a copy of the passport was required. For myself, I took zain, and for my wife, I took stc. For both, I took flexibility plans with lots of data for two weeks. In total, I paid 182 Saudi Rial. I used my data liberally during my stay, but when I left Saudia after my Hajj, I still had enough voice and data credit. I found mobile services to be cheaper than Oman.

When I returned to my room, it was almost 12.30 a.m. I immediately went to the bed as we had to get early for fajr prayers in Masjid Nabawi.

The next morning, we got up quit early and got ready to go to the Masjid Nabawi. When we reached the Masjid, there was still some time for fajr prayers. After fajr’s prayers, we immediately came back to the hotel as my wife had an appointment at 9.30 a.m. for Rowdah  visit. Back to the hotel we took our breakfast and decided to take some rest. I had a good sleep for about 1 and a half hours. When I woke up, it was 8 a.m. We got ready and by 8.30 a.m. left the hotel for Rawdah visit. Since Rawdah was on the opposite side of the Masjid, it takes time to reach there.

Rowdah and Riyazul Jannah Visits

It is THE DESIRE of every Muslim visiting Masjid Al Nabawi to visit Rowdah Rasulullah and Riyazul Jannah. Visiting Rowdah was comparatively easier than visiting Riyazul Jannah. It was very difficult as people jostled with each other to get inside Riyazul Jannah. On my Umrah trio in 2015, I was almost there but still could not get a chance as many people came pushing each other that I thought it prudent to withdraw. Now, the Saudi authorities have solved the problem by making prior appointments compulsory through the nusuk app.

On the suggestion of Asif bhai, I had already downloaded the app in Muscat itself. I tried making an appointment through the app on 27 May from Muscat but got the message that the location should be Madina. I called Asif bhai and told him that it’s not possible to book from Muscat. He suggested that I should keep trying. I tried several times and after a few attempts got booking for my wife. Bouyed by my success, I tried for myself and got booking on the first attempt. So this way we both had individual bookings for 29th May. Once an individual appointment is done and the visit is completed, the app does not give a booking for one year. The idea is to give a fair chance to everyone. However, travel agents can do group bookings. We were hoping that we would get one more chance with the group.

We reached the designated spot 15 minutes prior to the booking time. There were long queues but very organised. Everything was well controlled. Everyone had to show their booking in the app. There was a QR code generated in the app that was scanned, and people were let in. I sat in front of Qumbad e Khizra (Green Dome) and waited for her to come out. The Green Dome is synonymous with Madina and Masjid Al Nabawi. Below it lies the grave of our beloved Prophet. There are innumerable poems in urdu that use the symbolism of Green Dome.

My wife came out after about 40 minutes. She was very happy. She got the opportunity to pray in Riyazul Jannah. She got another opportunity to visit Rowdah again with the group of ladies travelling with us. It is possible for muallims to make group appointments. I found the nusuk app to be very useful. It has various functions. A very useful information provided by nusuk is the time of prayer and how much time is left in the next prayer in Masjid e Nabawi and Haram e Makki. It made our lives a lot easier. Besides, the app can be used to book hotels, taxi, etc. It also has a store to buy Hajj and Umrah related gifts. There are discounts section on the app as well. Overall it is quite useful for hajis.

We came back to the hotel to take some rest. We took showers and took some rest. After some time, it was zuhr time, so we went back to the Masjid Al Nabawi again. After zuhr, we did not stay back in the Masjid. Came back to the hotel and had a quick lunch. Breakfast lunch and dinner were part of our packed. It made our lives much easier. Otherwise, I have seen pilgrims spending a substantial amount of time searching for food.

After lunch, my wife stayed back in the hotel, and I went back to the Masjid Al Nabawi as I had Rowdah appointment at 2.30 p.m. I was at the designated spot at 2.15. My app was checked, and I was allowed beyond the first barrier 10 minutes before our time. 5 minutes before our time, the gate was opened, and we were let in. Inside the Masjid, we were asked to sit and wait. We were told that the previous batch was still in Riyazul Jannah. It will take another 10 minutes for them to leave. Most of us, instead of waiting, prayed two rakah of nafil. I also did the same and thanked Allah for giving me this opportunity. After some time, volunteers came and told us to move to the Riyazul Jannah section. I could not get there during my Umrah in 2015. I was getting the opportunity after 10 years. But the wait was worth it as I got full half an hour to pray in Riyazul Jannah. Alhamdulillahi Rabil Alameen for this favour. From Riyazul Jannah, we were asked to make queue and move to visit the Rowdah. Rowdah is the final resting place of our beloved Prophet (s.a.w.).Next to Rasulullah’s grave, the graves of the first two Caliphs, i.e., Hazrat Abu Bakr  Siddiq (r.a.) and Hazrat Umar bin Khattab (r.a.) are also present. I presented my Salaam to the Prophet and the two companions and came out.

By the time I came out, it was a time when I prayed in the Masjid and went to the hotel and slept for some time. Before maghrib, a small meeting was called by Jamal bhai in the hotel meeting room. We attended the meeting and were pleasantly surprised to see Asif bhai  sitting there. His visa was issued at night, and he had just landed in Madina. It was a big relief. A small talk was given by Mr. Waseem and Asif bhai about how to conduct ourselves on this journey.

Me and my wife came back to the Masjid Al Nabawi for maghrib and isha. After isha, we were too exhausted to do anything or go anywhere. By this time, we had received a message from Asif Bhai that group appointments for ladies have been made for the next day for the Rowdah visit. There was a lot to do the next day. We just went back to the hotel, took dinner, and slept.

(To be continued in Part 4)