Mohsin Aziz

In the flight everybody was quiet. Some were praying, and some were reading the Quran. I plugged in my earpods and put Quran on the Aeroplanes audio system, closed my eyes, and listened to the recitation in the voice of Hafiz Mishary Rashid Al Afasy. It was so relaxing and comforting. After one hour, food was served, which was pretty decent. Our journey had started on positive note.

The flight was pretty smooth, and I slept for a while. I woke up to the announcement that the decent for Madina has started. Suddenly, the aeroplane started shaking a lot and moving sideways just before landing. Everybody started saying prayers. The plane landed a few minutes later. There were innumerable Hajj flights besides the regular flights at Madina Airport. Gallery was not available for our Aeroplane. Stairs were put, and we were asked to disembark. The moment I came outside, I realised it was very windy outside, so much so that I found it difficult to use the steps. It was heavy wind. Maybe that’s why the Aeroplane was moving sideways before landing. Our flight had landed at 6 p.m. Saudi time. It was late by 5 minutes. The flight duration was 3 hour 5 minutes.

Checkout from the airport was very quick and smooth. We realised we were in a departure area instead of the arrival area. It was very small. I used Madina Airport before in 2015 for my Umrah. The new Madina Airport is quite big. There were four counters working, and only passengers from our flight were being serviced, hence the quick checkout. The policemen at the passport control were not only very quick but also very polite. They greeted us and made dua for our Hajj to be Hajj Mabroor. When we finished passport control, we were asked by our muallims to wait in a small waiting area. After about 15 minutes of confusion, we were asked to go out and sit in buses parked outside.

There were 6 buses waiting outside. On each bus banner of Al Jazeera for Hajj and Umrah was present on both sides. Besides, the buses were very clearly numbered from 1 to 6. We were told yo sit in any of the buses. Me and my wife sat in bus number 3. We were told not to bother about our luggage. We were told that our luggage would be loaded on any of the 6 busses by the workers of the airport under the supervision of Musllims present. After about 15 minutes, some Saudi from the Hajj management came and counted the passengers. We were told that once all the passengers ftom our flight are accounted for by the Saudi authorities, our busses will be allowed to move. Some more time passed, but there was no moment. It was about one hour since we landed. People were sitting in the bus for almost half an hour. They started getting agitated. They had left their home at about 10 a.m. in the morning in Muscat. Many had come from other cities, driving to Muscat for 2 to 4 hours. Yet there were some who came from Salalah by flight. It was already a lengthy journey for them. Salalah is about 1100 kilometres from Muscat. Flight takes about 1 hour and 30 minutes. At around 7.30 p.m. one Muallim came and announced that for each Muallim, buses have been identified, and pilgrims must go to the bus identified for their respective Muallims. Me and my wife were under Asif bhai. Bus number 2 was allotted to him. We were further told now that until our departure from Saudia, we have to sir in the same bus with our Muallim to avoid any further confusion.

We disembarked from bus number 3 to go to bus number 2. There were pilgrims all over in the parking lot moving from one bus to another. The whole process took about 15 minutes. By 7.45 p.m. we were settled in our respective buses. After about 15 minutes again, one person came and started counting passengers. We thought now we are good to go. But it was not to be. After some time, one of the Muallim, Mr. Murad Al Balushi came to our bus and told us that now the buses are allotted as per Muallim it would be better that we go down and identify our luggage so thst it can be kept in our bus otherwise it woukd be a chaos at the hotel.  It was already brought to the parking area and kept together at one place. I went down and identified my luggage, which was then brought to my bus by one of the airport workers and loaded in bus number 2. Now we were confident that everything was done and the buses would move. But we were wrong. A Saudi guy came along with Murad bhai and told us to give our passports to him. I immediately gave my wife’s and my passport to him. Others followed suit. However, a few pilgrims refused to give passports. People were really tired by thus time and some of them started showing anger as well. At this point, Jamal bhai came and told us that unless Saudi authorities collect passports of all the pilgrims and match with the list of names, they would not allow the buses to move. Saudi authorities required passports for making nusuk cards.

Nusuk card

After multiple deaths in Hajj 2024, the Saudi government launched a major drive to stop people from doing hajj without permission. For all the registered pilgrims, Nusuk cards were issued this time. Most deaths that occurred in Hajj 2024 were among the unregistered who did not had access to air-conditioned tents and succumbed due to very high temperatures. The card was issued by the Saudi authorities to every haji this year. Hajis were expected to always carry the card with them. Anytime police could stop the hajis and demand to see nusuk Card. Once my taxi from Haram to the hotel in makkah was stopped and our nusuk cards were checked. The fine for those found doing hajj without nusuk was 20000 Saudi Riyal, while the fine for those assisting unauthorised hajj pilgrims was 100000 Saudi Riyal. The frequent checking reduced the number of pilgrims this year, and only about 1.6 million performed Hajj.

Finally, all the pilgrims gave their passports. The next round of wait started, and some of the pilgrims started getting agitated. Jamal bhai came again and gave a small pep talk telling us about the virtues of sabr during Hajj. It was at this time time that he told us that some of our co-pilgrims, including Asif bhai, have still not got their visa and are waiting in Muscat. He told us to pray for ourselves and for those who have been left behind and be thankful to Allah that we are not in Muscat, not knowing whether we will be able to go on Hajj or not. After that, everyone calmed down. Finally at 9.45 our bus moved. The streets of Madina were empty. We reached our hotel, Sheza Regency Plaza, at 10.15 p.m. While waiting on the bus, we were already told about our room numbers by Asif bhai through whattsapp. Whole going to the hotel Jamal bhai gave us our room keys which were with him. He was already in Madina for a few days making arrangements and had collected all the keys.

The moment we reached the hotel, Jamal bhai told us to first take dinner instead of going to our rooms or collecting our luggage. We were very tired and very hungry and the hotel dinner time was already over. The hotel staff were staying back and waiting for us to take dinner before shift change. It was very considerate of them. The dinner was very good and in enough quantity and variety. By the time we finished dinner, our luggage had already been put in the hotel lobby. I collected my luggage and went to my room. It was already 10.45 p.m. Hotel Shaza turned out to be a very good hotel. It was exactly a 5-minute walk to gate number 310 of Masjid al Nabawi.

Isha in Masjid Al Nabawi

Although we were very tired but after dinner, we decided to go to the Masjid Nabawi for isha prayers. It was 10 minutes past 11 p.m. but there were still a lot of people in the Masjid. The giant umbrellas were closed, and the whole Masjid was lit up with innumerable lights. After finishing my prayers, I just sat in the outer courtyard of the Masjid. It was so peaceful. One could see people from all over the world. Some were praying while some were reading the Quran. There were many who were talking on mobiles and showing their loved ones back home the Masjid through video call. By 12, we were back in our room.

After leaving my wife at the hotel, I went out to get Saudi sim cards. All the major Saudi mobile service providers have offices near Masjid Nabawi. I took two sim cards. For buying sim, only a copy of the passport was required. For myself, I took zain, and for my wife, I took stc. For both, I took flexibility plans with lots of data for two weeks. In total, I paid 182 Saudi Rial. I used my data liberally during my stay, but when I left Saudia after my Hajj, I still had enough voice and data credit. I found mobile services to be cheaper than Oman.

When I returned to my room, it was almost 12.30 a.m. I immediately went to the bed as we had to get early for fajr prayers in Masjid Nabawi.

The next morning, we got up quit early and got ready to go to the Masjid Nabawi. When we reached the Masjid, there was still some time for fajr prayers. After fajr’s prayers, we immediately came back to the hotel as my wife had an appointment at 9.30 a.m. for Rowdah  visit. Back to the hotel we took our breakfast and decided to take some rest. I had a good sleep for about 1 and a half hours. When I woke up, it was 8 a.m. We got ready and by 8.30 a.m. left the hotel for Rawdah visit. Since Rawdah was on the opposite side of the Masjid, it takes time to reach there.

Rowdah and Riyazul Jannah Visits

It is THE DESIRE of every Muslim visiting Masjid Al Nabawi to visit Rowdah Rasulullah and Riyazul Jannah. Visiting Rowdah was comparatively easier than visiting Riyazul Jannah. It was very difficult as people jostled with each other to get inside Riyazul Jannah. On my Umrah trio in 2015, I was almost there but still could not get a chance as many people came pushing each other that I thought it prudent to withdraw. Now, the Saudi authorities have solved the problem by making prior appointments compulsory through the nusuk app.

On the suggestion of Asif bhai, I had already downloaded the app in Muscat itself. I tried making an appointment through the app on 27 May from Muscat but got the message that the location should be Madina. I called Asif bhai and told him that it’s not possible to book from Muscat. He suggested that I should keep trying. I tried several times and after a few attempts got booking for my wife. Bouyed by my success, I tried for myself and got booking on the first attempt. So this way we both had individual bookings for 29th May. Once an individual appointment is done and the visit is completed, the app does not give a booking for one year. The idea is to give a fair chance to everyone. However, travel agents can do group bookings. We were hoping that we would get one more chance with the group.

We reached the designated spot 15 minutes prior to the booking time. There were long queues but very organised. Everything was well controlled. Everyone had to show their booking in the app. There was a QR code generated in the app that was scanned, and people were let in. I sat in front of Qumbad e Khizra (Green Dome) and waited for her to come out. The Green Dome is synonymous with Madina and Masjid Al Nabawi. Below it lies the grave of our beloved Prophet. There are innumerable poems in urdu that use the symbolism of Green Dome.

My wife came out after about 40 minutes. She was very happy. She got the opportunity to pray in Riyazul Jannah. She got another opportunity to visit Rowdah again with the group of ladies travelling with us. It is possible for muallims to make group appointments. I found the nusuk app to be very useful. It has various functions. A very useful information provided by nusuk is the time of prayer and how much time is left in the next prayer in Masjid e Nabawi and Haram e Makki. It made our lives a lot easier. Besides, the app can be used to book hotels, taxi, etc. It also has a store to buy Hajj and Umrah related gifts. There are discounts section on the app as well. Overall it is quite useful for hajis.

We came back to the hotel to take some rest. We took showers and took some rest. After some time, it was zuhr time, so we went back to the Masjid Al Nabawi again. After zuhr, we did not stay back in the Masjid. Came back to the hotel and had a quick lunch. Breakfast lunch and dinner were part of our packed. It made our lives much easier. Otherwise, I have seen pilgrims spending a substantial amount of time searching for food.

After lunch, my wife stayed back in the hotel, and I went back to the Masjid Al Nabawi as I had Rowdah appointment at 2.30 p.m. I was at the designated spot at 2.15. My app was checked, and I was allowed beyond the first barrier 10 minutes before our time. 5 minutes before our time, the gate was opened, and we were let in. Inside the Masjid, we were asked to sit and wait. We were told that the previous batch was still in Riyazul Jannah. It will take another 10 minutes for them to leave. Most of us, instead of waiting, prayed two rakah of nafil. I also did the same and thanked Allah for giving me this opportunity. After some time, volunteers came and told us to move to the Riyazul Jannah section. I could not get there during my Umrah in 2015. I was getting the opportunity after 10 years. But the wait was worth it as I got full half an hour to pray in Riyazul Jannah. Alhamdulillahi Rabil Alameen for this favour. From Riyazul Jannah, we were asked to make queue and move to visit the Rowdah. Rowdah is the final resting place of our beloved Prophet (s.a.w.).Next to Rasulullah’s grave, the graves of the first two Caliphs, i.e., Hazrat Abu Bakr  Siddiq (r.a.) and Hazrat Umar bin Khattab (r.a.) are also present. I presented my Salaam to the Prophet and the two companions and came out.

By the time I came out, it was a time when I prayed in the Masjid and went to the hotel and slept for some time. Before maghrib, a small meeting was called by Jamal bhai in the hotel meeting room. We attended the meeting and were pleasantly surprised to see Asif bhai  sitting there. His visa was issued at night, and he had just landed in Madina. It was a big relief. A small talk was given by Mr. Waseem and Asif bhai about how to conduct ourselves on this journey.

Me and my wife came back to the Masjid Al Nabawi for maghrib and isha. After isha, we were too exhausted to do anything or go anywhere. By this time, we had received a message from Asif Bhai that group appointments for ladies have been made for the next day for the Rowdah visit. There was a lot to do the next day. We just went back to the hotel, took dinner, and slept.

(To be continued in Part 4)