Mina Camp

Labbaik: The story of my Hajj (Part 14)

Posted by

0

Mohsin Aziz

Today was 8th June and 12th Dhul Hijja. I got up just in time for Fajr prayer. In fact, when I woke up, azaan had already been said, and most of the people in the camp were praying sunnat of Fajr. I thought I might miss the congregational prayers. I was lucky to find a spare wash basin to make wudu (ablution). After Fajr, there was a short bayan. Immediately after the bayan, preparations started for leaving the camp. Today was the last day of ramy (stoning the devil). Today was also our last day at Mina. We were about to leave Mina for good. For the last several days, we have left Mina only to come back. There was no need to take our belongings with us. We simply folded our sofa beds and kept our things on them. In our absence, workers would come and clean the camp, but never did I hear of anybody losing anything or misplaced. I even left a box of homemade Halwa that I brought from India for Hajj. I always found it at the same place. The honesty of poor workers was unbelievable.

We left the camp at around 5.45 a.m. with our backpacks. We had spent only a few nights at Mina, but while leaving the camp, we all were looking back at the camp. Today most of us were taking photographs of the camp. I felt a strange indescribable connection to the place. I felt nostalgic at leaving Mina. I believe most of the pilgrims felt the same. For the first time on this journey, I realised that their was a strange silence in the bus. Everyone was quietly reciting supplications. There was a strange wistful longing for Mina in everyone’s eyes. Many, including me, were praying for an opportunity to come back again in the future.

We reached our hotel at 6.20 a.m. Breakfast was ready to be served. After keeping our belongings in the room, we all assembled in the dining room for breakfast. Breakfast, as usual, was lavish. We had some time at our disposal. We had already got the message that the bus would leave at 2.30 p.m. for Jamarat.

I used the time to go down in the hotel lobby and buy a few remaining gifts. There was a large shop in the lobby selling dishdasha (long Arab attire for males). There were toys and other gift items. I bought a few dishdasha, a Hajj Camera, and a camel for Osman. The camel recited Talbiyah when it’s hump was touched. I used the opportunity to collect my clothes from the hotel laundry. By 9 p.m. I was free. We utilised the rest of the time to talk to families and kids back home. We also took a small nap of about one hour.

Me and my wife offered Zuhr prayer in the hotel prayer area. There was a separate prayer area for ladies in the hotel. By the time  we were free from Zuhr, it was time for lunch. Since the plan was to leave at 2.30 p.m. for Jamarat, I kept the lunch very light. After lunch we got half an hour to rest. The bus left the hotel exactly at 2.30 as planned. Today was more crowd than the previous two days. Still, there was enough space for everyone to easily complete the stoning and freely make dua. After the third Jamarat, usually, dua is kept either very short or not not at all. Once we finished the third Jamarat, we stood in a corner and waited for our fellow pilgrims ftom the grouo to join us. At that moment, my wife and I decided to go to Haram directly and do Tawaf Al Wada. Today, I was not feeling well and feeling extremely tired. I was not sure about the next day. We both wanted to complete the last rukan also. I called Asif bhai and asked him whether we can do Tawaf al Wada today or not. His answer was in affirmative.

Now, the target was to reach Haram as quickly as possible. It was already 6.15 p.m. Jamarat is part of Mina. Maghrib time was approaching fast. We had to leave Jamarat before Maghrib. If the pilgrims are unable to leave Mina before sunset on 12th Dhul Hajja, they have to stay one more night at Mina. We had already left Mina in the morning with the intention of leaving Mina. We asked a policeman about getting a taxi for Haram as there were different roads going in various directions from that point onwards. He was very kind and explained from where to take the taxi for Haram. He also very warmly shook my hands and congratulated us for completing Hajj saying ‘Hajj Mabroor InshAllah’. This is a common dua given to Hajjis. It means an accepted and spiritually pure Hajj done without any sins. This is the wish of every pilgrim. The sign of Hajj Mabroor is change in the lifestyle, character,and dealings of a pilgrim change for better after the Hajj.

It was a five minutes walk to the place from where we could get a taxi for haram. This day and place, I was told that taxis charge an exorbitant price. I wanted to go in a reserved taxi. It was difficult to get one. The moment any taxi stopped, pilgrims would just get in. Taxis were few and far and pilgrims in hundreds in not thousands. Finally I managed to get a taxi. He asked for 300 Saudi Riyal per person. Bargaining started, but in the meantime, a lady got inside the car. Finally, we settled for 200 Saudi Riyal people. I paid him 400 Saudi Riyal for the two of us. This was the costliest taxi that I hired for such a short distance during my Hajj. In the rush, it took us around 30 minutes to reach Haram. Hundreds of pilgrims could be seen walking to Haram. It is almost 8.5 kilometres distance. The taxi dropped us at Ajyad side. The taxi driver was Bangladeshi. The cars Air Conditioning was not working properly. He closed the AC and opened the windows. The air of Makjah was warm but bearable.

By 7.10, we were at Haram. It was almost isha time. We were lucky to find not only a place in Mataf but were also able to finish the Tawaf just before Isha. By the time we finished all the arkan, we were totally exhausted. It was difficult to walk. We immediately came out and got a taxi for our hotel. It charged us the usual fare of 20 Saudi Riyals for both of us. When we reached the hotel we found that most of the people had already taken dinner. We both went for dinner straight away. We knew that if we went to the room, it would be difficult to come out again. We were tired and hungry. The warm dinner never felt so soothing and comforting.

During dinner, I found out that quite a few fellow pilgrims had decided to stay one more night at Mina. Allah permits both options. Those who want to leave Mina on 12th Dhul Hijja are allowed to do so, and those who want to stay till the 13th Dhul Hijja in Mina are so equally allowed . Allah says in the Quran:

And remember Allah during the appointed days. But whosoever hastens to leave in two days, there is no sin on him and whosoever stays on, there is no sin on him, if his aim is to do good and obey Allah (fear Him), and know that you will surely be gathered unto Him (Al Quran, Surah Al Baqarah:203).

After finishing our dinners, we went to the room, took a shower, changed clothes, and straight away dived into our beds. I think we immediately went to deep slumber.

(To be continuedin Part 15)

References:

Al Quran. Interpretations of the meaning of THE NOBLE QURAN in the English language. Muhsin Khan. Darussalam Publications, 2011.

Labbaik: The story of my Hajj (Part 13)

Posted by

0

Mohsin Aziz

After dinner, we left for Mina. Today, isha was prayed at Mina Camp. Most of the fellow pilgrims were making plans for the next day. Their topic of discussion was Tawaf al-Ifadah. I was tired but relaxed. Thankfully, I had already done it. Everybody was so happy at the camp. Arafat, Muzdalifa, and even Jamarat al Aqaba were done. Only two more days at the Mina Camp and Hajj would be complete.

The next day, early morning, after Fajr, we went to the hotel. It felt so good to be back at the hotel as I could take a shower peacefully and adjust the room temperature. After breakfast, we had ample time at our disposal. We were told that the group would go to the Jamarat after Zuhr prayer. We were asked to pray in the hotel prayer room itself. Our hotel was in Hudood e Haram. After Zuhr, we had a quick lunch. Immediately after Zuhr, we all assembled in the hotel lobby. The bus was ready. Our bus as usual was bus number 2.

Today was 11th Dhul Hijjah (7 June), the first day of Ayyam Tashreeq. 11th, 12th, and 13th are called Ayyam Tashreeq. These three days, the stoning is done from the time when the sun reaches its zenith (Zuhr) till sunset (Maghrib). The term Ayyam Tashreeq means the days of Tashreeq. The word “Tashreeq” has its roots in the pre electricity era when refrigerators were not available to store the meat of sacrificial animals. Tashreeq was the old practice of drying meat in sunlight for three days so that it could be preserved and used for a longer period of time. Ayyam Tashreeq thus means days of drying the meat. These appointed days have been mentioned by Allah in the Quran:

And remember Allah during the appointed days. But whosoever hastens to leave in two days, there is no sin on him and whosoever stays on, there is no sin on him, if his aim is to do good and obey Allah (fear Him), and know that you will surely be gathered unto Him (Al Quran, Surah Al Baqarah:203).

These days are marked for celebrations, festivity, and prayers.

And the budn (cow, oxens, or camels driven to offered as sacrifices by the pilgrims at the sanctuary at Makkah). We have made for you as Among the symbols of Allah, Therein you have much good. So mention the name of Allah over them when they are drawn up in lines (for sacrifice). Then, when they are down on their sides (after slaughter), eat thereof, and feed the beggar who does not ask (men), and the beggar who asks (men).  Thus, have we made them subject to you that you may be grateful (Al Quran, Surah Al Hajj:36).

This Quranic verse makes it clear that every pilgrim has to individually sacrifice an animal. For those pilgrims who don’t have the monetary means to sacrifice animals, there is expiation. Thus expiation is not in money. It’s fasting. Pilgrims have to fast three days in Makkah and further seven days when they go back to their homes. A total of ten days of fasting replaces the sacrifice of animals.

It was a common practice amongst Arab during Jahiliyya to smear the blood and meat of the sacrificed animal on Kaba. It was believed that they are offering the sacrifice in thus wat. This practice was stopped by Allah. The Quran declared that:

‘It  neither their meat nor their blood that reaches Allah, but it is piety from you that reaches Him. Thus, have we made them subject to you that you may magnify Allah for His guidance to you. And glad tidings (O Mohammad  SAW to the Muhsinun (doers of good)’ (Al Quran, Surah Al Hajj:37).

It is true that Allah does not need the meat. It is the purity of our intention that is important. It has today sadly become a topic of boasting as to how many animals one person has sacrificed. In fact, even the price of animals has become a status symbol in many societies. Animals are bought at a very high price just to show off. This practice has nothing to do with Islam. We as a society need to introspect and change course.

By the time we reached Jamarat, it was a bit late. No carts were available. We had to climb up the slope. It was hot, but thankfully, it was not humid. We brought our spare bottle full of zamzam water. Pilgrims were spraying water on each other to cool them down. There were quite a few tapson the way up where cold drinking water was available. Most of us not only quenched our thirst but also filled our empty spray bottles.

Today, we had to stone all the three Jamarat. The procedure is to take 7 pebbles and throw them one by one first on Jamarat Al Sughra. Before throw one has to recite Takbeer (Allahu Akbar i.e. Allah is Great). After completing the set of seven pebbles is the time for dua. Pilgrims stand on one side facing Kaba and make supplications. Once it’s done, Pilgrims move to the second Jamarat (Janaratt al Wusta) and repeat the procedure. Lastly, the procedure is repeated at the last and the biggest Jamarat (Jamarat al-Aqaba). 

By the time we finished the three Jamarat, it was close to maghrib time. We all assembled near the Asif bhais flag. As a group, we moved to the bus. Just after Maghrib time, we were back to the hotel, relive that one more days rituals are done. 

Back to the hotel, the first task was to pray maghrib, which we prayed in the hotel prayer room. After maghrib we took our dinner. Today the dinner was very good with a lot of choice. Jamal bhai had arranged a huge cake and qahwa for the whole group. It was a nice gesture from him to the pilgrims. We truly felt cared for, though I did not eat the cake. By the time dinner was done, it was Isha time. Isha was also prayed in the hotel.

By the time we left the hotel for the Mina Camp, it was 10.15 p.m. We reached the camp at around 11 p.m. as today we found some traffic on the way. Back at the camp, people got engaged in supplications and supplementary prayers. I was too tired for anything. I made up my sofa bed and went to sleep.

(To becontinued in Part 14)

References:

Al Quran. Interpretations of the meaning of THE NOBLE QURAN in the English language. Muhsin Khan. Darussalam Publications, 2011.

Labbaik:The story of my Hajj (Part 10)

Posted by

0

Mohsin Aziz

The journey from Arafat to Muzdalifa, though brief, was brimming with anticipation and spiritual weight. Muzdalifah is a vast, open plain situated between the sacred lands of Arafat and Mina, It holds deep significance in the sacred rites of Hajj. Its name, derived from the Arabic root meaning nearness, symbolizes the pilgrim’s closeness to the Divine after the pivotal day at Arafat.

Located to the southeast of Mina, Muzdalifah is more than just a resting place. It is a sacred pause. Here, pilgrims spend a night under the stars where hearts are stilled and prayers whispered into the open sky. It is also known as Al-Mash’ar al-Haram, or The Sacred Grove. It is also referred to as Al-Jam’, meaning “the gathering”. It is here that pilgrims from every corner of the world gather to rest together to get energy for the rest of the rites.

From the tranquil plains of Muzdalifah, pilgrims gather small, smooth, pea-sized pebbles—seemingly insignificant stones that will soon become symbols of resistance against evil. These pebbles are carried forward to Jamarat, where for three consecutive days, pilgrims perform Rami al-Jamarat—the ritual stoning of Satan, reenacting the unwavering faith of Prophet Ibrahim (peace be upon him).

In the quiet of Muzdalifah, beneath the canopy of stars and amidst the murmurs of prayer, the soul finds a moment of reflection, unity, and nearness to the Creator. Here, in the vast and silent expanse of Muzdalifah, beneath the open sky, pilgrims spend the night of the 9th of Dhul Hijjah in an atmosphere unlike any other. There are no tents to shield them, no fans to ease the heat, no air-conditioned comfort. Only sand beneath and the heavens above. It is a night of simplicity, humility, and reflection.

Up to this point, the uniformity of Ihram—two plain, unstitched white garments worn by every male pilgrim—had visually erased many distinctions. Yet, differences in worldly comfort still lingered on. Pilgrims arrived through a variety of arrangements. Some came on modest packages, staying in basic hotels, where even meals might not be guaranteed. Others, through premium packages, enjoyed the luxury of five-star accommodations near the Haram, complete with full board, air-conditioned transport, laundry services, and other conveniences.

Muzdalifah is the true culmination of equality for the pilgrim. Here, all distinctions dissolve completely. Here, status, wealth, and privilege lose their meaning. Everyone, regardless of background, sleeps on the same open ground beneath the vast night sky. There are no tents, no private enclosures. Only the most basic of facilities such as public toilets and washrooms are provided. Each pilgrim must find a small patch of earth, lay down a mat, and settle in for the night, shoulder to shoulder with millions of strangers.


In Muzdalifah, all return to the essence of Hajj—equal before God, stripped of excess, and united in submission. In the stillness of the night, beneath the stars, the pilgrim is reminded that true honour lies not in comfort or wealth but in faith, humility, and the sincerity of one’s heart. Pilgrims lie on the ground, and often dust tarnishes their white Ihram. It is a powerful reminder that one day, we all will go beneath the ground in our graves with only a few pieces of unstiched white clothes.

‘Everyone shall taste death. And only on the day of resurrection shall you be paid your wages in full. And whoever is removed away from the fire and admitted to Paradise, he indeed in successful.  The life of this world is only the enjoyment of deception (a deceiving thing)’  (Al Quran, Surah Al Imran:185)

It is a reminder that whatever our position in life in terms of fame and economic status, we must not act haughty. Finally, we have to leave this world without all that we have so proudly achieved, made, and collected. Only provisions that will travel with us and accompany and benefit us in the next life are our good deeds that we send now. Muzdalifah  reminds us of the ultimate truth, that everything faces except our relationship with Allah. It also puts our ego to dust and reminds us that in the end, everything will be dust.

By the time our bus reached the sacred ground, much of the space had already been taken. Pilgrims were everywhere—resting, praying, and searching for a patch of earth to call their own for the night.

Despite the simplicity, Muzdalifah is brightly lit, its floodlights cutting through the darkness like a reminder of the modern world intruding upon this timeless ritual. For someone like me, that light brings a particular struggle—sleep doesn’t come easily when the sky never truly darkens. But perhaps that, too, is part of the test: learning to rest the body while the soul remains awake to the deeper meaning of the journey.

A constant buzz filled the air over Muzdalifah. The rhythmic whir of helicopters and the soft, persistent hum of drones circling above cut through the stillness of the night. They hovered like silent sentinels, part of the Saudi government’s efforts to monitor and manage the immense crowd spread across the sacred plain.


In recent years, the authorities have taken steps to ease the pilgrim’s burden by laying down wide stretches of soft, carpeted flooring. But by the time we arrived, every inch of that comfortable area had been occupied. I managed to find a small spot near our bus, while members of our group quickly unrolled their plastic mats in a nearby open area.

My wife spotted an empty space about 25 yards away, nestled beneath two trees. Though it was nighttime and the shade didn’t matter in the traditional sense, we soon realized the trees offered unexpected advantages. First, their branches helped soften the glare of the powerful overhead lighting, creating a dimmer, more restful space. Second, the tree trunks—along with a nearby shrub—provided a modest sense of enclosure, a bit of privacy amidst the vast sea of pilgrims. Here, we not only found a secluded place but a touch of solace.

We opened our backpack, and like a magicians hat, things started rolling out. I had brought one cotton bedsheet, which I put on the mat. Our mat was on sand and was speckled with tiny pebbles. With a slightly thick bedsheet, the mat became a bit more cushy. It softened the ground beneath, offering just enough comfort for bodies to ease on it. We had also brought two light cotton blankets. We had a very small self inflatable pillow for my wife while I preferred my backpack as a pillow. By the time we were ready with our preparations, I could hear multiple azaans echoing beautifully. Their melodies weaving a serene tapestry of devotion across the ground.

It was time to pray maghrib and isha. It is Sunnah of the Prophet to pray maghrib and isha combined together, one after another. They are prayed at the time of isha. This is called Jama Takhir, i.e., combining late as they are combined at isha time and not at maghrib time. Thousands of small prayer congregations could be seen. It’s not practical to have one communal prayer, though there is a mosque at Muzdalifa.

The mosque at Muzdalifa is called Masjid Mashar al Haram. It is between Masjid Al Namirah at Arafat and Masjid Khaif at Mina. It can house about 12000 worshipers. There were just under 2 million people at Muzdalifa. There is no option for the rest to pray in their own groups. At isha time in Muzdalifa, there are thousands of Jamaat’s go on simultaneously. It’s a sight to behold. Every group does its own azaan and prayer. Our group was led by Asif bhai. He was our imaam (prayer leader) for both maghrib and isha. The first 3 rakaat of maghrib was prayed. It was followed by a shortened isha of 2 rakaat following the tradition of the Prophet.

After finishing prayers, I sat with my group, and we chatted a bit. At around 9, I came back to my place and started collecting pebbles. Jamal bhai had already gifted every group member small cloth pouches for keeping pebbles. Pebbles have to be collected for all three days of stoning. Each person needs 49 pebbles. 7 for the first day and 21 each for the next two days. I had to collect 98 pebbles for myself and my wife. I saw people collecting more than required in case somebody else requires pebbles. It would not be possible to go back and collect again. Pebbles can not be taken from anywhere. They have to be from the ground of Muzdalifah only. I took at least 25 pebbles extra.

After the pebbles were collected, we ate a very light meal for dinner. After Isha prayers, food packets were distributed by the Saudi government along with a small gift bag. The gift bag was prepared very thoughtfully. It had a water bottle, an umbrella, a sling bag, and a small plastic hand fan. I took only one gift bag and one food packet for both of us. The food packet had a water bottle, a bottle of juice, a croissant, and a chocolate cake. We took only the water bottle and cake from it. We divided the cake into two and both of us took half cake each. We had brought a small packet of dry nuts. We ate the nuts. From the gift bag, we kept the umbrella, hand fan, and sling bag. We left the water thermose there itself. In the morning, we had to go directly to Jamarat. We were not in a position to carry any extra weight.

After taking our light dinner, we did our azkar. We were now ready to sleep. It was going to be a unique experience for us – sleeping with the most diverse group of almost 2 million people gathered at one place from each and every nook and corner of the world. It is the Rahma of Allah Subhanahu Tala that between the busy day of Arafat and the tough day of first Jamarah, the night of Muzdalifah is not kept for prayers. It’s for taking rest and sleeping. This is the Sunnah of the Prophet. Here at Muzdalifa, the reward is not in Qiyamul Layl or recitation of the Quran  or lots of azkar. Rather, the reward has been kept in sleep and rest. Subhan Allah.

In the small space we had carved out for ourselves, we lay down to catch a few hours of rest, for tomorrow promised to be long and demanding. Earlier that day, we had endured what was perhaps the hottest day of Hajj. At Arafat, not far from Muzdalifah, we had taken refuge inside our air-conditioned tent, shielded from the sun’s unrelenting blaze. And now, just a few hours later, we found ourselves lying under the open sky, our mat spread over coarse sand.

One side of our mat was two trees and a bush that gave us covering. On one side was a very large group of Egyptian pilgrims. On the other side were two pilgrims from our group. One Pakistani and a Bangladeshi. The Bangladeshi uncle was old. He had a very gentle demeanour, always a gentle smile on his face.  The Pakistani person was a lecturer in some university in Oman. He had taken the responsibility of the Bangladeshi uncle. He never allowed him to do anything. He would always be running around and bringing food, water, or whatever required by the uncle. That is the spirit of Hajj. Taken care of each other. Helping each other.

Yet, to our surprise, the night air in Muzdalifah was merciful. The heat had receded. A delicate breeze stirred the leaves above us, rustling the branches with a soft, soothing rhythm. Each time the leaves parted, the moon revealed itself in all its brilliance, shining in a sky so clear it felt like a window to the divine. In that moment, it was easy to believe that Malaika (angles) had descended quietly from the heavens, and it was the fluttering of their wings that sent this blessed breeze drifting through the night.

Two small blessings made our stay at Muzdalifah noticeably more comfortable. The first was a pair of neck fans. It was indeed a thoughtful gift from my dear friend and colleague, Umar Ali Khan. Second was a power bank that my wife insisted on bringing. It was a small but powerful power bank. We both slipped on our neck fans, which we had fully charged earlier at our hotel in Makkah. Their quiet hum brought instant relief, gently circulating the cool night air around our faces.

To our pleasant surprise, the fans’ battery life endured far longer than expected. When mine eventually began to slow, I simply connected it to the power bank and drifted back into sleep. Altogether, we managed to rest for a full two and a half hours. It was a deep, undisturbed sleep. It was, contrary to all our earlier apprehensions, the most restful sleep we’d had in days—a gift of serenity cradled under the open sky.

I woke up in the morning to the sound of people chatting with each other. I realised that fajr time is near. I immediately went to the washroom and made wudu (ablution for prayer). Soon, Fajr Azaan was given, and prayer was held. Asif bhai was our imaam. After fajr prayers, UstadhWaseem (one of the muallims in the grouo) gave a small bayan and also explained about the plan for the day.  Now we had to go to Jamarat for the first stoning of Satan. I had taken a lot of ORS (Oral Rehydration Solution) packets with me from Muscat. Before going to Jamarat, my last activity at Muzdalifa was to drink water with ORS mixed in it. We packed our bagpack and left our place at 6 a.m. and went to the bus, which was just in front of us. Our bus left  Muzdalifa at 6.20 a.m. for Jamarat. On our journey towards Jamarat, Asif bhai led us to say talbiyah loudly. The atmosphere of the whole bus was laddem with reverence and submission, filled with the sound of talbiyah.

Labbaik Allahumma Labbaik

Labbaik La Sharika Laka Labbaik

Innal Hamda Wan Nemata Laka Wal Mulk

La Sharika Lak

(To be continued in Part 11).

References:

Al Quran. Interpretations of the meaning of THE NOBLE QURAN in the English language. Muhsin Khan. Darussalam Publications, 2011.

Labbaik: The story of my Hajj (Part 9)

Posted by

0

Mohsin Aziz

The following morning, on the 5th of June, just after Fajr, a bayan was held in the tent on the virtue of sabr—patience. As the beds were retracted, the space transformed into a modest yet serene gathering area. Pilgrims sat cross-legged on the floor, the air filled with quiet reverence.

After the bayan, I joined a few fellow pilgrims in bringing tea to share. People were scattered in small, peaceful clusters—some engaged in heartfelt conversations, others immersed in the recitation of the Qur’an. A few were quietly engaged in their morning azkār, their fingers rhythmically moving along the beads of their tasbih.

I, too, sipped my tea, savoring both its warmth and the calm of the morning. It had become my daily habit during the Hajj to jot down a simple to-do list for the day. It was a small act—barely five minutes of planning—but it brought a sense of clarity and purpose to the hours ahead. As each task was completed, I would strike it off the list, a quiet satisfaction settling within me.

Once my tea was done, I reached for my pocket Qur’an and began to recite, letting its timeless words wash over me in the stillness of the sacred morning.

At around 5 a.m., Asif Bhai arrived and, in his usual calm and composed manner, announced that everyone should be ready by 5:30 a.m.—we would be heading back to the hotel. The bus, he said, was scheduled to depart at 6:00 a.m.

I immediately called my wife to inform her. Like me, she was puzzled. Weren’t we supposed to remain in Mina for at least three days? we wondered aloud. It seemed there were differing opinions among the various schools of thought regarding the duration of stay in Mina. But as we would soon come to realize, this decision wasn’t necessarily rooted in fiqh—at least not in our understanding of it. It was a logistical or organizational call, and we simply had to follow suit.

In fact, after the dinner fiasco yesterday, our team leader Jamal bhai decided that we would go to the hotel and take breakfast in the hotel and stay there till maghrib. The group will do early dinner and come back to the Mina Camp after maghrib. Isha will be done at the camp, and the night will be spent at the camp. This way the problem of food will be solved and the obligation of spending night at the Mina would also be fulfilled.

We reached the hotel at 6.30 a.m. Our room was as it is except that it was cleaned by the hotel staff, and bedsheets were changed. Supplies in the washroom had been replenished. I immediately went for breakfast. Unlike Madina Hotel, the good thing about Makkah Hotel was separate dining areas for men and women. The name of the restaurant was Tasneen (tasneem is the name of a spring in the Paradise). In the ladies’ section, there was no entry for men. It was good. Ladies could take their food in a relaxed atmosphere. However, in the men section, it was allowed for families to sit and partake food together. It was not very ideal but practical. There were a few ladies, some elderly who were on wheelchairs. They had come with their sons or husband’s. If they had to go to the ladies’ restaurant, who would take care of them? They came with their mensfolks to the male section.

Breakfast at the hotel was a lavish affair. A grand spread of dishes adorned the tables. It was a rich array of breads, fresh salads, cut fruits, and an assortment of delectable sweets. Yet, for me, simplicity was the key. I helped myself to a modest combination of a single slice of bread, a fluffy omelette, a few pieces of watermelon and pineapple, and a warm cup of karak tea. This became my morning ritual for the entirety of my stay in Makkah.

Among the many offerings, the live omelette station was the highlight. Every morning, I would eagerly join the queue to watch the magic unfold. The chef behind the station was a man of Saudi-Rohingya descent, his skilled hands swiftly crafting the perfect omelette.

The presence of the Rohingya in Makkah is quite significant—thousands of them now call the city home. Some are citizens, others hold legal residency permits, while many remain without official status. Their journey to Saudi Arabia began during the reign of the late King Faisal, a time when they first sought refuge here, fleeing the turmoil of their homeland(Ahmad, Syed Neaz, 2009). When I did my Umrah in 2015, that time also our Porter at the hotel was rohingya. He was a Saudi citizen. In Makkah, their presence has woven itself into the rich fabric of the city’s culture, and each morning, as I waited for my omelette, I couldn’t help but think about the long history of resilience that these people carry with them.

Arafat: The Soul of Hajj

Today was the blessed Day of Arafat — the very heart of Hajj, the day when pilgrims stand before their Lord in humble submission, their hearts full of longing and their hands raised in earnest du‘ā’.

Our day began early. We left our hotel at 9:00 a.m. and arrived at our Mina camp by 9:30. According to the schedule shared by our group leader, we were to be ready by 10:30 a.m. to depart for Arafat. Though we left a little behind schedule, by the mercy of Allah, we reached Arafat by 11:15 a.m.

Our assigned tents were well-organized and spacious. The men’s tent, number 41, was quite large and accommodating, while the women’s tent, number 62, was conveniently close by. Despite the intense heat of the day, the interiors of the tents were remarkably cool — outfitted with multiple air conditioners and blowers. In fact, it was so cool that I even turned off one of the units for comfort.

There wasn’t much scheduled activity before the prayer, as Zuhr was to be delayed and combined with Asr, following the Sunnah of the Prophet ﷺ. Around 12:15 p.m., the powerful and poignant Khutbah of Arafat was delivered from Masjid Al-Namirah. Though we were not physically present at the masjid, we experienced the moment through a live broadcast on our mobile phones from within our tents. It was a reminder of how technology can serve a sacred purpose.

Following that, a special Khutbah for Omani pilgrims was also relayed through the audio system in our tents, resonating through the quiet calm of Arafat as we listened attentively.

As we waited for the time of prayer and du‘ā’, the atmosphere carried a sense of serene anticipation — a stillness before the spiritual downpour. The Day of Arafat is not about external activity but deep, internal reflection. It is a time for shedding burdens, for baring the soul, for turning to Allah with every hope, every fear, and every secret desire.
Among all the sacred days that adorn the Islamic calendar, the Day of Arafat stands as the pinnacle of divine mercy, the very soul of Hajj. It is not merely a moment in the pilgrimaget. Is the pilgrimage. As the noble Hadith declares: “Arafat is Hajj.” Without it, the Hajj is void, incomplete. While there may be expiations for shortcomings in other rites, for missing Arafat, there is none — such is its gravity and grace.

On this sacred day, the pilgrim’s soul finds itself standing at the threshold of the Divine, in the vast plain of Arafat, under the open sky — where countless prophets once stood, where the Mercy of Allah descends more abundantly than on any other day.

At Arafat, the rituals reflect the solemnity of the hour: the Zuhr and Asr prayers are combined and shortened, performed with humility and reverence. Then begins a sacred stretch of time — from Asr until Maghrib — a time not for idle talk or worldly distraction, but a time wholly dedicated to du‘ā’.

Here, hands are raised, hearts are softened, and eyes overflow with tears as pilgrims pour out their souls to their Lord whispering hopes, seeking forgiveness, asking for guidance, pleading for mercy, and yearning for the ultimate gift: a beautiful ending (ḥusn al-khātimah) a death upon faith.

On this day, one begs for freedom from the blazing fire, for the Book of Deeds to be placed in the right hand, for ease and safety on the Day of Judgment, and for nearness to the Most Merciful in the gardens of eternity.

It is the day when angels descend in thousands, when sins are washed away like dust in the wind, and when the veil between servant and Master feels thinner than ever. There is no gathering on earth more beloved to Allah than the gathering at Arafat. It is the day on which Allah boasts in front of Angels, showing them his servants standing and seeking forgiveness in millions.

Due to high temperatures, Saudi authorities had called on the pilgrims to stay inside tents from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (Oman Observer,  2025, June 5). I tried standing outside at around 3.30 p.m. outside the tent in open but could not manage more than 5 minutes. It was excruciatingly hot. I came back to the comfort of the tent.

Inside the tent at Arafat, every possible comfort had been thoughtfully arranged. It was a testament to the hospitality and care extended by the Government of Oman. Despite being in the heart of a desert plain, the atmosphere inside was nothing short of remarkable.

Rows of refrigerators stood well-stocked with chilled water bottles and an assortment of refreshing fruit juices — mango, orange, mixed berry, and more — each a welcome relief from the heat outside. Fresh fruits, including apples, oranges, and plums, were provided in generous supply, offering both nourishment and energy for the long day ahead.

Two massive deep freezers drew quite a bit of attention — filled with a delightful variety of ice creams, enough to bring a smile even in the solemnity of Arafat. I treated myself to one, savoring the cool sweetness in the calm of the tent.

But what truly caught my interest was something that felt like a small luxury in the middle of a spiritual journey, piping hot karak tea. Rich, fragrant, and perfectly spiced, it was a familiar comfort, and I gratefully sipped a cup right after the ice cream to protect my throat. There was no harm in being extra cautious. After all, common cold, sore throat, and fever often find their way into the ranks of pilgrims during Hajj, when bodies are tired and immunity stretched.

The care and detail in these arrangements didn’t go unnoticed. They were more than just physical comforts — they reflected a spirit of generosity, a reminder that ease can be a part of devotion, and that serving those on the path of worship is itself a noble act.

Arafat day is a busy day. Three points are to be touched on the same day. Morning, you are in Mina. Before Zuhr, you have to reach Arafat. Maghrib has to be prayed at Muzdalifa. It is physically and spiritually straining. As per the schedule shared with us, we were asked to be ready by 5.45 p.m. so that the buses could start by 6.15 p.m. towards Muzdalifa.

Jabal al-Raḥmah (The Mount of Mercy)

An important place of interest for the pilgrims, besides the Masjid Al Namirah, is the Jabal Al Rahma (the mountain of Mercy).
Standing silently in the heart of the plain of Arafat is a small, rocky hill that is witness to history. Many people from my tent were going to Jabal Al Rahma, but due to intense heat, I decided not to go. It was visible from outside our tent. At around 4 p.m., a group from my tent decided to go. I was also invited, but I politely excused myself. In hindsight, It proved to be a correct decision. Nobody could actually reach there. The gate near our tent, which provided access to Jabal Al Rahma, was closed by the authorities as a precautionary measure due to heavy rush at the mount. When the authorities saw a very heavy rush near the Jabal, they decided to stop others from reaching there, thus potentially averting  any possible mishap.

It was on this hill that the Prophet Muhammad ﷺ delivered his final sermon during his Farewell Pilgrimage — a sermon that echoed the timeless values of justice, equality, and the sanctity of life. Here, countless hearts have turned to Allah in repentance, and countless prayers have ascended to the heavens.

Though not a requirement of Hajj, many pilgrims yearn to climb this hill — not for its height or challenge, but for what it represents. It is a symbol of divine compassion and human humility. It is the place where Adam (‘alayhis-salām) and Ḥawwā’ were reunited on earth after their descent from Paradise and where their repentance was accepted by Allah. Ever since, it has been a place where forgiveness rains down upon those who seek it with sincerity.

From a distance, Jabal al-Raḥmah may appear as nothing more than a rugged elevation of stone. But to the believing heart, it is a sanctuary of hope — where sins are shed like worn garments, and the soul feels closer to its Creator than ever before.

To stand at its base, or even to gaze upon it from afar, is to be reminded of the endless mercy of Allah — the One who forgives again and again, no matter how many times we return.

It was standing on this Mount the Prophet declared that the Deen has been completed, a sign for sahaba that the Prophet’s mission is complete and it is time for the Rahmatul lillalmin to meet Ar Rahman and Ar Rahim. It was a powerful sermon, a charter of equality and human rights that the world had not heard before. This Farewell Sermon was delivered by the prophet on the Day of Arafat on 9 Dhul Hijjah, 10 Hijri. The Prophet said:

‘O People, lend me an attentive ear, for I know not whether I shall ever be amongst you again after this year. Therefore, listen carefully to what I am saying and take these words to those who could not be present here today.

O People, just as you regard this month, this day, and this city as sacred, so regard the life and property of every Muslim as a sacred trust. Return the goods entrusted to you to their rightful owners. Hurt no one so that no one may hurt you. Remember that you will indeed meet your Lord, and He will indeed reckon your deeds.

Allah has forbidden you to take interest; therefore, all interest obligations shall henceforth be waived. Your capital, however, is yours to keep. You will neither inflict nor suffer any injustice. Allah has decreed that there shall be no interest, and all interest due to ‘Abbas ibn ‘Abd al-Muttalib is waived.

All blood feuds from the days of ignorance are abolished, and the first claim I abolish is that of Rabi’ah ibn al-Harith.

O People, beware of Satan for the safety of your religion. He has lost all hope that he will ever be able to lead you astray in major things, so beware of following him in minor matters.

O People, you have certain rights over your women, and your women have rights over you. They are your partners and committed helpers. Treat them well and be kind to them, for they are your companions and trusted aides. You have taken them only as a trust from Allah and with His permission.

O People, listen to me in earnest: Worship Allah, perform your five daily prayers, fast during the month of Ramadan, give Zakah from your wealth, and perform the pilgrimage to the House if you are able.

All mankind is from Adam and Eve. An Arab has no superiority over a non-Arab, nor does a non-Arab have any superiority over an Arab. A white person has no superiority over a black person, nor does a black person have superiority over a white — except through piety and righteous action.

Learn that every Muslim is a brother to every other Muslim, and that the Muslims form one brotherhood. Nothing shall be legitimate to a Muslim which belongs to another Muslim unless it is given freely and willingly. Do not, therefore, do injustice to yourselves.

Remember, one day you will appear before Allah and answer for your deeds. So beware, do not stray from the path of righteousness after I am gone.

O People, no prophet will come after me, and no new faith will be born. Reason well, therefore, and understand the words which I convey to you. I leave behind me two things: the Qur’an and my Sunnah. If you follow them, you will never go astray.

All those who listen to me shall pass on my words to others, and those to others again. And may the last ones understand my words better than those who heard them directly.

O Allah, be my witness. O Allah, be my witness. O Allah, be my witness.‘

To this day, when pilgrims gather in the plains of Arafat, they are reminded of the message of the Prophet. They reflect upon it not merely as philosophical and historical narration but as a covenant between them and the Seal of the Prophet’s.

We had to start at 6.15 p.m. but there was a delay. Many of the pilgrims who went to Jabal Al Rahma were either stuck their due to heavy rush or got confused on the way back. Eventually, we managed to leave Arafat at 7.15 p.m. and reach Muzdalifa only just before 8 p.m. A new adventure awaited us.

(To be continued in Part 10)

References:

Ahmad, Syed Neaz (2009) Burma’s exiled Muslims. The Guardian, 12 October. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2009/oct/12/burma-muslims-rohingya-saudi-prisons?utm_source=chatgpt.com.

Oman Observer (2025, June 5) Hajj: Pilgrims pray at MountbArafat in Hajj apex. Available at: https://www.omanobserver.om/article/1171580/world/region/hajj-pilgrims-pray-at-mount-arafat-in-hajj-apex